I just bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX sedan. The drivers side door is the only door that will lock and unlock either with the key or the key fob. The other 3 doors do nothing. I checked the fuse and it was good. I highly doubt the other 3 doors have bad actuators. What's strange is when you attempt to lock the doors with the key fob, you can hear clicking sounds on the passenger side and throughout the back doors. It sounds like the doors are trying to lock, but won't. What could the cause of the other 3 doors not working?

 

The passenger side MICU controls all the door locks. The 3 non-driver's door actuators have a different pin for the unlock power out. I'd look at the electrical connector for the passenger MICU and look for any corrosion or poor connections with a loose female connector. The passenger MICU is connected to the passenger side interior fuse box.

 

So I got to the the MICU on the passenger side and unplugged the wiring harness that connects to it and everything looked good. Plugged it back in and checked all other connections on the fuse box. When I pressed the lock button on the key fob, I could feel and hear the locking sound coming from the MICU, but only the drivers side door locked and unlocked. Do you think the MICU on the passenger side needs to be changed?

 

I'm guessing the MICU is most likely. I'd find a u-pull-it junkyard to find one.

 

I went to a salvage and pulled 2 fuseboxes with the MICU attached to the back of them. They came off EX models and was blue in color. I took apart the glove box so I could locate the MICU and removed it, tried both new MICU and neither of them worked. In fact pressing the lock on the key fob did nothing so I put back in the original one and it goes back to clicking again. I'm so frustrated I don't know what to do now.

 

I thought that the passenger MICU was the most likely culprit. The 3 non-driver's doors use the same circuit. If one of the door actuators went bad, then it could draw all of the power causing your symptoms. Try to unlock the doors and look at each push rod. Hopefully one doesn't move at all. If one doesn't move, then I'd pull the door panel off that door and unplug the actuator, then retry the door locks.

If they all move, you'll have to do one door at a time. I'd probably pull all three door panels, then unplug one at a time. The connector you want will have a lt green/red and a white/red wire on a two pin connector. If unplugging one of the actuators fixes the problem, then you isolated the problem to that actuator.

On older accords, it was possible to repair the actuator if the rubber piece fell off. It was a stop for the gears. You'll have to look at the actuator to see if you can open it up.

 

Try to unlock the doors and look at each push rod. Hopefully one doesn't move at all. If one doesn't move, then I'd pull the door panel off that door and unplug the actuator, then retry the door locks.

I don't understand this paragraph. Maybe you could expound what you are saying.

Also, now the blinkers don't work since replacing the MICU. I checked the fuse for the turn signal, but it check good.

 

Look at the mechanical unlock post you would pull to unlock the door. Try unlocking the door with the switch and look to see if the post has any slight movement. I would suspect a shorted actuator motor would not allow the post to move up at all, where the working ones might slightly push up.

The MICU isn't tied into the turn signal circuit in a way that would not allow the turn signals to not work. Do the hazards work?