I've pulled every fuse under the hood and all relays and also in the car but still has a short to ground issue draining the battery, no fuses blown or anything but I have this light blue toggle switch that stays lite up whether or not it's in off or on position , only way to make it go out is to disconnect battery, does anyone have any idea as to what this might go to until I can do some more digging .?



Here is the toggle switch that's staying on , this isn't a stock thing on the ULEV engine is it..?

 

That is definitely not stock. That is some kind of cut off switch, so it could be fuel or spark. Follow the wht/blk? wires back to find the other end and also the wire colors they tie into. Same with the blue and red wires to the light.

Have you measured the amp/milliamp draw on your battery with your volt meter? How long does the car have to sit before the battery drains?

 

it was fluctuating to .55 -.44 of an amp when checking draw but I'll look into it further, it almost has to be what's drawing current cause I pulled everything including the alternator plug and hot leg

 

A half amp draw is fairly large. I'm not sure how much that light draws in current, but definitely disconnect to see what happens to the amp draw.

Look into something like the glove box light being on or trunk light staying on as well. Pulling fuses should have cut off the amp draw. On your car, there is also a fuse box on the passenger side inside the car in case you didn't check.

 

Will do , I pulled ever fuse and relay out on both driver side and passenger side , it has to be that light that's staying on that must be tied to a hot leg coming straight from the battery but I'll check soon as I can to see where it's leading.

 

I looked under dash and seen that toggle switch had a solid blue wire going to the switch and solid red and it's spliced into a solid red and solid blue , the only code on dash CEL is heater circuit low voltage or malfunction for bank 1 sensor 1 , why on earth would someone toggle that to an O2 sensor or A/F sensor..? When I pulled up a schematic there is a solid blue and Red going to the sensor in engine bay leading to under dash area , can anyone make sense of this , that must be why the sensor CEL is illuminated surely, car seems to run and drive perfectly, I'll see if I can take pics of the splice tomorrow but did upload the toggle switch and you can clearly see those wire colors feeding switch coincide with the A/F sensor colors on schematic.

 

Quick update this morning, 11/27/203
Did a quick Google search and found same components on this Valet override switch for car alarm , these are exact same components on my switch attached to metal strapping on driver's side fuse panel. So definitely this is some kind of after market car alarm and they've spliced into a constant power supply of 12 v and this happens to be my primary O2 circuit.

 

Dec 3 2023 Looks like I got my work cut out for me , push to start or after market alarm , looks like I'll be needing a wire schematic for 2002 Honda Accord ex 2.3 ULEV anyone have one handy ..?

 

That looks like a mess and not fun. I recommend getting the wiring diagram for each aftermarket part installed. Then you'll know what wires/systems were modified. I'd suggest purchasing the 98-02 shop manual from automanualsource.com. It is worth the $22 investment. It can help identify wire colors on the system that was modified. It is not great on how the wires are routed through the dash.

In most cases, a cut wire should connect to and from the unit. Say a blue wire to the starter is cut, the order should be blue OEM wire - some wire to the component - another wire from the component - blue OEM wire (other end). The cut ends of both blue wires in this case should be close to each other.

I recommend before removing, write down every wire in those components and identify both ends of the original wire cut. You'll also likely run into wires that were tapped for just power and ground.

Hope this makes sense.

 

Update today Dec 4th 2023 , got all the bird nest of wires removed and the car started , the only wires I'm left with which several have 12.5 to 13 volts running through them

The yellow wire with black tape on end has 13v on it and other yellow have 12.3v , the black has not voltage and kinda flat like speaker wire and the tan to grayish wire with a brown stripe has 13v on it , I can't figure out where they're coming from , one group of 2 look like they're going through fire wall to engine bay and other group of 2 turns left like toward drivers door jamb not to far from hinges , anyone have a clue what this is ..?

These are the wires and relays I removed, such a mess and very time consuming.