You should move your transmission for sale ad to the private/for sale section. Be sure to read the posting rules.

I just wanted to make sure that you are actually missing both spark and fuel.

A bad main relay would cause no fuel and would not cause a no-spark issue.

 

Somehow clicked post in the middle of my reply.

I don't know how the security system is wired into your car, but I would start by checking the inputs and outputs of the security system. If you can locate a wiring diagram, that would make your life easier.

Is this a V6 or a 4-cylinder?

EDIT: Does your car have a security system that was an accessory, or just the typical security system that comes with the accord? The typical security system will start the alarm if you use the key to open the door when you locked it with the remote, etc.

 

the more info I get it may sound like the relay , the trans is in the for sale section I put it in hear as a follow up with Pictures , I also did put it in the ad ,

 

the security system in factory installed , I am leaning on the relay ,I am going to pull it out today and ck it ,

 

Hi Ineedabin2, I have 2002 accord with the same problem. Cranks but doesn't start and wont come out of Park. This started today when I moved the car during a heavy rainstorm. I got it into the garage and since then it won't start. I checked for anything wet but everything looks good in that respect.

 

Check my post on page 1 from earlier today. There are a couple of indicators which will easily tell you if your FP is getting power or not. The solder connections you need to resolder are the coil connections for each coil (two pins close together as indicated by photo) and the leads from the ceramic resistor.

 

Thanks Blackwater, I have checked the solder joints and they appear to be fine. One thing I am suspicious about is the Ignition Switch. It feels sloppy when inserting the key and sometimes has to be coaxed to turn. Could this be the problem?
I haven't had any trouble with the car since the first time it didn't start so it is difficult to say if it will happen again.

 

I would think the key wouldn't be a problem unless you have the immobolizer feature, even though you have to jiggle it on occasion. If the transponder goes bad or the ring goes bad it would likely be a permanent thing.

As to the solder connections, the hairline crack which indicates a cold solder joint can be so small (much finer than a hair) that you might not be able to detect it even with magnification so it would be a brief and simple exercise to resolder and put that possibility to bed.

 

I just now tried to start the car and I noticed that the green key light does come on, I heard the fuel pump, and the car started.
I did remove the relay board and checked all the solder joints with a magnifier glass. All the joints were shiny and none had any cracks. I have worked with electronics for several years and have seen many bad joints and these all appeared normal. I guess if it happens again I will remove the board and try resoldering them.