2003 accord blower motor cuts in/out
#1
08-18-2010, 10:00 PM
2003 accord blower motor cuts in/out
Wow what a great forum this is - why didn't I find this a long time ago?!?!?! Sorry for the long post but I want to give as much info as I can...
I have a 2003 accord V6 (no Nav) and have recently had a problem with the blower/AC. I was driving and the blower was working then all of the sudden it stopped dead. After a few minutes it came on again and blew cool air - then a minute or 2 later it shut off again. When it is off I try to manually adjust the fan, but nothing happens. It also seems to turn off the compressor (I turn the AC on and On while at a stop light and don't hear/feel the compressor and the RPM doesn't change) - for what its worth the display shows the AC to be 'ON'. Now 1 piece of info that may be relevant -lately I have noticed while at idle with the AC on the idle seems to go up and down (almost like an old lawn mower). I had to take it to the dealer to have the seat belt latch replaced (air bag light was stuck on) and while there they saw a code P0506 (Idle rpm lower than expected) which explains the idling issue, I just need to clean the IACV, but I don't think these 2 issues are related. I have been researching this on the web and keep coming accross info about the blower power transistor/resistor (part # 79330-SDA-A01), but again I am not sure that is the right path to go down.... Do any of you have any tips (besides trade it in and get a new car)
? THANKS for your help on this!
I have a 2003 accord V6 (no Nav) and have recently had a problem with the blower/AC. I was driving and the blower was working then all of the sudden it stopped dead. After a few minutes it came on again and blew cool air - then a minute or 2 later it shut off again. When it is off I try to manually adjust the fan, but nothing happens. It also seems to turn off the compressor (I turn the AC on and On while at a stop light and don't hear/feel the compressor and the RPM doesn't change) - for what its worth the display shows the AC to be 'ON'. Now 1 piece of info that may be relevant -lately I have noticed while at idle with the AC on the idle seems to go up and down (almost like an old lawn mower). I had to take it to the dealer to have the seat belt latch replaced (air bag light was stuck on) and while there they saw a code P0506 (Idle rpm lower than expected) which explains the idling issue, I just need to clean the IACV, but I don't think these 2 issues are related. I have been researching this on the web and keep coming accross info about the blower power transistor/resistor (part # 79330-SDA-A01), but again I am not sure that is the right path to go down.... Do any of you have any tips (besides trade it in and get a new car)
? THANKS for your help on this!
#4
08-19-2010, 12:01 AM
This is strange. Over the last week or two, three people have had the same problem on their 03 accords. That error you got is for the blower motor circuit.
It is likely the blower motor transistor that is the culprit. If you are good with a soldering iron, you can repair it yourself for pretty cheap. If not, you can buy a new one from the dealership.
Here is a DIY about how to do this: honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2041582&highlight=repair+blower+r esistor
I think that a fuse should be soldered in there and NOT a 1 ohm resistor. Read the comments under that member's DIY.
Also, someone posted their fix in our forums and used a thermal fuse.
It is likely the blower motor transistor that is the culprit. If you are good with a soldering iron, you can repair it yourself for pretty cheap. If not, you can buy a new one from the dealership.
Here is a DIY about how to do this: honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2041582&highlight=repair+blower+r esistor
I think that a fuse should be soldered in there and NOT a 1 ohm resistor. Read the comments under that member's DIY.
Also, someone posted their fix in our forums and used a thermal fuse.
On my 2003 Honda Accord EX 6 cyl sedan the "resistor" (really a controller) is located behind the snap-on under dash panel on the passenger side. It is affixed to the fire wall towards the driver's side corner of the snap-on panel with two Phillips head screws.
After pricing a new unit (~$85) I wondered what was inside the unit. I opened it be prying back the four tabs that holds it together. Inside is a little circuit board. I used a solder removal iron (~$12 at Radio Shack) to unsolder the three leads to the heat sinked power transistor (I think) and the two smaller leads to a thermal fuse clamped to the heat sink with the same screw that holds the power transistor to the sink. The fuse (rated at 2 AMPS and 114 C) had no continuity so was burned out. I replaced it with a $1.60 thermal fuse rated for 117 C purchased from a local electronic supply shop. (The 2 AMP rating on the original fuse should not be an issue so long as the replacement fuse will carry at least 2 AMPS. If my new one gets hotter than 117 C, it will melt and interrupt the circuit and power to the fan.) I resoldered and reassembled the unit making sure the fuse was coated well with thermal heat sink compound to assure good thermal connection with the sink. The entire job took about 20 minutes. Everything works fine again!
After pricing a new unit (~$85) I wondered what was inside the unit. I opened it be prying back the four tabs that holds it together. Inside is a little circuit board. I used a solder removal iron (~$12 at Radio Shack) to unsolder the three leads to the heat sinked power transistor (I think) and the two smaller leads to a thermal fuse clamped to the heat sink with the same screw that holds the power transistor to the sink. The fuse (rated at 2 AMPS and 114 C) had no continuity so was burned out. I replaced it with a $1.60 thermal fuse rated for 117 C purchased from a local electronic supply shop. (The 2 AMP rating on the original fuse should not be an issue so long as the replacement fuse will carry at least 2 AMPS. If my new one gets hotter than 117 C, it will melt and interrupt the circuit and power to the fan.) I resoldered and reassembled the unit making sure the fuse was coated well with thermal heat sink compound to assure good thermal connection with the sink. The entire job took about 20 minutes. Everything works fine again!
#6
08-19-2010, 01:52 AM
Administrator
Sun spots are more than likely the culpret but then again it still sounds like the
blower motor transister to me also...
blower motor transister to me also...
#7
08-19-2010, 05:16 AM
I had the same problem. Blower motor resistor fixed it. Expensive little part...
Here's the thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=34264
Here's the thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=34264
#8
08-20-2010, 10:14 AM
Administrator
Problem solved, thats what we liked to see here in the HAF...
Eveyone whos had this problem should take note...
WheelBrokerAng
Eveyone whos had this problem should take note...
WheelBrokerAng
#9
08-21-2010, 11:16 AM
FIXED! Thank You for your help!
OK, I will admit I was a little skeptical but it worked perfect! The 1 thing that had me confused was, everything I read said the fan would work on high if the transistor was bad, but mine wouldn't work at all anymore. I opted to replace the whole unit instead of repairing it. The 1 thing that was a pain in the rear was the screw on the left, it is right next to something that wouldn't allow me to get my fat fingers in there. But I quickly learned that if you swear at it enough it will come out... I attached 2 pictures so you can see what I am talking about (the transistor is the darker black component in the pics).
#10
08-21-2010, 04:51 PM
On older accords, the high temperature setting would work, because the electronics were different on the equivalent. It was three resistors in series, so you had four fan speed settings. Your blower can run at infinite speed settings depending on how the speed control is set up.
Glad you got it fixed.
Glad you got it fixed.