2003 Accord EX AC compressor change
After getting my 2003 Accord back on the street after a year’s rest the AC compressor made the belt slip for just a few seconds last fall. I am looking for what else needs to be addressed in changing out the compressor. After unplugging the compressor no more issues. I ordered a dryer bottle also but have read mention of flushing the system. I have an air compressor to use if needed.
Is that serpentine belt that slipped auto-tensioned?
Do you think that the tension on the belt caused it to slip, or do you think that the a/c compressor is seizing up?
Turning on the a/c will put extra load on that belt and could cause it to slip.
Do you think that the tension on the belt caused it to slip, or do you think that the a/c compressor is seizing up?
Turning on the a/c will put extra load on that belt and could cause it to slip.
I replaced the tensioner last year but it was in good shape. It was a new belt but melted a little and I replaced it again. I really can’t risk problems so it is getting a new compressor and it wasn’t cooling well after getting it back from the dealership that installed the used motor and recharged the AC. The time it slipped the Alternator light came on and power steering stopped working with the air on. It went away as soon as I turned off the AC. It has been trouble free all winter with the compressor unplugged.
If the system is still charged, you don't have to flush out the system. If you do flush out the system, make sure that the proper amount of oil is added to the system before you charge with R134a.
You should definitely replace the o-rings on the two lines going to the compressor, and the two lines going to the new receiver/drier.
When I did my car, I replaced every o-ring in the system. I pulled out the evaporator core inside of the car and replaced o-rings and the expansion valve (not sure if I needed to replace it).
There is an o-ring lubricant called Nylog that will help prevent them the o-rings from becoming brittle over time. It will also help prevent tearing the o-rings when reattaching the lines.
In the end, you want to pull a vacuum on the system and make sure that it holds the vacuum using the manifold gauge. I gave it an hour, and the pressure didn't change.
If you do the job right, you will not have to mess with the a/c system for a long time.
You should definitely replace the o-rings on the two lines going to the compressor, and the two lines going to the new receiver/drier.
When I did my car, I replaced every o-ring in the system. I pulled out the evaporator core inside of the car and replaced o-rings and the expansion valve (not sure if I needed to replace it).
There is an o-ring lubricant called Nylog that will help prevent them the o-rings from becoming brittle over time. It will also help prevent tearing the o-rings when reattaching the lines.
In the end, you want to pull a vacuum on the system and make sure that it holds the vacuum using the manifold gauge. I gave it an hour, and the pressure didn't change.
If you do the job right, you will not have to mess with the a/c system for a long time.
2003 4-cyl belt IS auto-tensioned. I don't remember if Chris has a V-6??
An old belt might be hard & slippery, but Chris said it's new-ish. So I guess that means the compressor is presenting excessive drag causing it to slip. PA, you're probably better than me with AC systems, but I'm thinking that an over-charged AC system might produce excessive drag even with a good compressor??
An old belt might be hard & slippery, but Chris said it's new-ish. So I guess that means the compressor is presenting excessive drag causing it to slip. PA, you're probably better than me with AC systems, but I'm thinking that an over-charged AC system might produce excessive drag even with a good compressor??
It could cause excessive drag if it was overcharged. There is a pressure release valve that would prevent the a/c system from running if it was excessively high.
If the system lost all of its R134a and was filled with air, that could cause some excessive drag.
The only way to verify the pressure in the system is to put a manifold on the high and low ports, and see what kind reading you have with the a/c turn off and on.
Since his engine was replaced, I would inspect the a/c lines to see if anything got pinched off during the installation of the new engine.
If the system lost all of its R134a and was filled with air, that could cause some excessive drag.
The only way to verify the pressure in the system is to put a manifold on the high and low ports, and see what kind reading you have with the a/c turn off and on.
Since his engine was replaced, I would inspect the a/c lines to see if anything got pinched off during the installation of the new engine.
It’s a four cylinder. When I had the dealership replaced the engine they replaced the belt. I replaced the tensioner when the belt slipped which looked fine and was told on here it may be the compressor as some have had the same problem on their Accords. There were parts of the belt embedded in the pulleys but I couldn’t see any damage to the belt but replaced it again with the tensioner. I never considered checking for an overcharge condition. The mechanic that did the work I worked with him for many years at the old Honda dealership before they closed and would be very surprised if it wasn’t right. I am unsure if the system was open while the car sat as they did a tear down inspection when the slack adjuster failed down to the block and I just had it towed home after finding out it needed an engine and sat for a year. With the new compressor ordered it will be getting replaced. If I just need to do the compressor and get someone to do the recharged as I don’t have a vacuum pump no big deal. My wife drives a long distance to work and with the single belt it is a pain.
A couple questions? I got the new compressor and need to know the correct amount and type of oil. The sticker under the hood reads look in owner’s manual which the amount isn’t in there. Is the Honda oil the way to go? The compressor came with O rings on the caps are these to remove and use?
According to the Helm shop manual, it goes like this...
The new compressor will come with oil.
Drain the old compressor & measure how much comes out.
Subtract that amount from 160ml (5+1/3 oz).
That's how much you're supposed to drain out of the new compressor.
EXCEPT don't drain more than 50ml (1+2/3 oz) out of the new compressor.
It's PAG oil (Denso ND-OIL8)
Remove any other AC components? There's also a list of how much oil goes in each component.
The new compressor will come with oil.
Drain the old compressor & measure how much comes out.
Subtract that amount from 160ml (5+1/3 oz).
That's how much you're supposed to drain out of the new compressor.
EXCEPT don't drain more than 50ml (1+2/3 oz) out of the new compressor.
It's PAG oil (Denso ND-OIL8)
Remove any other AC components? There's also a list of how much oil goes in each component.
There was just a tiny bit of oil in the compressor and no 134 in the system. I am putting it back together tomorrow and didn’t remove any oil from the new compressor which was a lot easier to turn than the old one. I am expecting a leak unless it was the compressor.
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2003, ac, accord, air, belt, compressor, condition, drive, evaporator, expansion, honda, oil, replace, serpentine, valve




