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2003 Accord V6(AT)

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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 11:21 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by EXV6NIGHTHAWK
How many miles are on this 10 year old car? The recommended interval for timing belt change are 7 years, or 105k miles, whichever comes first. I waited 8 years, but that's when the noise started. The belt was obviously slipping on the pulleys, because they had black marks all the way around them. The belt slipping on the pulleys is what I think caused the noise. How long would it have made the noise, before the belt snapped or jumped off, who knows. Soon after I started hearing the noise, and decided it was coming from the timing covers, I changed the belt, along with everything except the seals.
The car is at 171k...
 
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 12:27 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by poorman212
I have to agree on the tb but I'll leave that for now....

Two dials tells me this is auto ac....meaning there is a digital read out you set the temp to and the system "keeps" it at that temp...just like your house.

At the top of this section there is a sticky/thread - Common DIY Threads. In that there is a link to how to get HVAC codes. Do that and let us know what, if any, codes you get. Sounds like an issue with the blend door motor/actuator but check the codes first.
My car came up with L & J - P

Is this an easy fix?
 
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 09:04 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by dopeyman06
The car is at 171k...
If the timing belt has never been changed, your engine is living on borrowed time. One fine day, the noise, as well as the engine, will stop.
 
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 07:47 PM
  #14  
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I'm going to give high level details of the ac codes.

"L" - Open/short in the mode control. Mode control is the "switching" from floor to vent to defrost to defrost/heat....ect.

"J" - Drivers side air mix. This is the one where the system should "adjust" the amount of air going over the heater core vs. the evap core. In other words controls the temp of the air coming out of the vent.

"P" - Pass side air mix.....pretty much the same as above, except the other side.

Easy fix, well that depends on how much of this you are willing to do and what tools you have? I'm in to help, are you?

PS- Agian the others are covering the concerns over the TB - If the choice is spending money on fixing the ac/heat vs saving/doing the tb....I'm with the tb. The heat/ac can wait.
 
Old Mar 15, 2013 | 05:53 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by poorman212
I'm going to give high level details of the ac codes.

"L" - Open/short in the mode control. Mode control is the "switching" from floor to vent to defrost to defrost/heat....ect.

"J" - Drivers side air mix. This is the one where the system should "adjust" the amount of air going over the heater core vs. the evap core. In other words controls the temp of the air coming out of the vent.

"P" - Pass side air mix.....pretty much the same as above, except the other side.

Easy fix, well that depends on how much of this you are willing to do and what tools you have? I'm in to help, are you?

PS- Agian the others are covering the concerns over the TB - If the choice is spending money on fixing the ac/heat vs saving/doing the tb....I'm with the tb. The heat/ac can wait.
Thank you for the explanation on the AC codes..... I'm willing to do what I can and capable of doing to get it fixed/repaired.. Is this also expensive??

As for the TB, I guess I'm gonna have to sell off some things to raise the money and get it done ASAP...
 
Old Mar 16, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #16  
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Hard to say the cost as I'm not sure of the issue. I'd start with testing the drivers side air mix motor. Then the pass side
 
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