My 03 accord wont shift out of park. I replaced the brake sensor, still won't come out of park. Also the gear selection light on the dash don't always work when the don't work the car won't shift threw the gears in drive. The key will not come out of the ignition when the lights don't work. When they are working the car shifts threw the gears and when you shut it off the key will come right out. Can anyone please help me

 

When did these issues start happening? Was it in an accident? Any water at the passenger side footwell?

Is the Check Engine Light on? Any trouble codes?

The issues may be caused by a power or ground connection in the interlock system circuits and/or a faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

 

The car has been sitting for a couple months no accident I got in it and these problems started the check engine light is on they codes were for oxygen sensors. And the traction control light is on when these problems happen but as soon as the lights on the dash start to work all problems go away

 

If the car sat for a few months and the problems started after sitting, take a look inside the engine bay for any rodent nests. They may have chewed through some wiring. Look inside the fuse box, etc.

 

I looked around in the engine compartment no rodent issues

 

This is how the Shift Position Interlock works:

Battery voltage is supplied at all times through fuse
13 to the brake pedal position switch. With the
Ignition Switch in ON (II), battery voltage is
supplied through fuse 21 to the Shift Lock
Solenoid. When the Brake Pedal is pressed, a
battery voltage input is supplied to the PCM and
the MICU. If, at the same time, the accelerator
pedal is not pressed, the PCM provides ground to
the Shift Lock Solenoid. The solenoid is then
energized allowing the Shift Lever to be moved.

If you have a multi-meter, I can try to provide some tests for you to do to try to narrow down the possible cause.

 

I do have a meter. With that said I don't really know how to use it

 

Okay, here are some basics on a few functions that we may use in some of the tests. I will try to post some tests/checks later today, as I have to run some errands.

To measure voltage:

1. Generally for most car components, unless your meter is auto-ranging, set the voltmeter to the 20 volts setting.
2. With the voltmeter, touch the meter's red lead to the wire/component/etc. you want to measure/check the voltage; and the meter's black lead to body ground (bare metal; such as a ground bolt or bracket, etc.).

To test for continuity (testing if current flow through a wire or component):

1. Set to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.
2. When you want to test a wire or component for continuity, touch one end of the meter's lead to one side of the wire/component; and the meter's other lead to the other end of the wire/component.

• If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
• If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
• If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

At times, you may have to backprobe a wires/terminals at a connector that is still plugged in.

Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmrt, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...%5D-t-pins-jpg

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...back-probe-jpg

 

1. This first check is to check that there is power (+) coming through under-hood Fuse No. 13 to the brake switch.

• Unplug the connector to the brake pedal position switch.
• With the voltmeter, touch the meter's red lead to connector's terminal cavity no. 1 (where there is the connector's red wire). Touch the meter's black lead to body ground.

What the voltage measurement there? Is it somewhere around 12 volts?


2. If there is good voltage in the step above, we'll test for power (+) coming through the brake switch wiring to the PCM.

• Locate the PCM under the bottom middle of the dash.
• Unplug Connector E from the PCM.
• Locate terminal no. 22 (Wht/Blk wire) on Connector E. With the brake switch plugged back in. Test for voltage on terminal no. 22 with the brake pedal depressed.

Report your results before we move on to further tests. Tests are to narrow down the area of issue(s).

 

I test the brake sensor it was fine I have to take the center counsel apart in the morning and will post what I find. Will it tell which connector is E