Created this thread off of "https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e5/#post331487"

TexasHonda wrote:
"...I suspect your original problem was failure of AC thermostat to control evap temp, resulting in freeze-up and no cooling until evap thawed out. Did you happen to notice any fog exiting vents when air became warm?"

Nope


TexasHonda wrote:
"Charging w/ a Walmart AC special is a recipe for disaster. You don't know what high side is doing, and it may be getting far too high. In that case, the hi/lo pressure cut-out switch should disable compressor to prevent an explosion, which appears to be your situation. The higher pressures you saw on low side pressure gauge occured after compressor was disabled and system was equalizing, which increases pressure on high side."

Wasn't Walmart special. Was Autozone best. Regardless, point taken.


TexasHonda wrote:
"An AC manifold gauge set is necessary to measure system pressures and understand what's happening. You will need to get a set of gauges, some reading to understand how to use them,... or get a shop to investigate."

Thanks for the advice. I'll follow the FSM guide and check what I can before I take it to the shop. I need to learn some stuff anyway.

 

The symptoms were that the A/C would cool and then just stop sending out cool air for some reason. I had to drive 95 mph in 2nd gear, sit sideways with my left arm out the window and hit Auto button with my left pinky toe to get it to turn back on (just kidding of course).

I checked the A/C diagnostics (holding Auto and Off and all that jazz) and no codes were present. I also did the startup combination (hold Auto + Dual and start the car) and none of the items shown gave an error.

I had also added some 134a but I added to much and the clutch stopped working. This morning I had some taken out and the clutch and radiator fan seem to be working as expected. The air does seem cool but I didn't have time to get the temp at the vent. It's been cool here (in the 60's) so now it's hard to tell what is going on.

I'm pretty sure the head unit buttons are fine; I'm going to deprioritize those in my search. It also appears the pressure switch is fine since I added to much and the clutch on the A/C would not switch on after that; I'm going to rule that out. The blower fan works so that's not an issue.

My focus now is on the internal temperature sensor that is inside the "box" under the dash. The temperature readings in the diagnostic says it works (was 17 Celsius and outside it was about 65 F). But does it affect if the A/C stays on or not?

What of the "resistor" that is on the front of the "box" under the dash: wouldn't the blower fan shut off if that was bad?

 

Random shut-off off AC can be caused by excess compressor clutch gap (wear issue). This can be intermittent or total stoppage of compressor engagement.

The blower control transistor is working if fan is blowing.

The thermostat has a temp sensor embedded in evap to sense evap temperature and cut off compressor before evap freezes. That's why compressor cycles on/off.

good luck

 

So I messed with this thing some more since I had some r134 taken out to bring the pressure down. Sure enough, Texas was right. Now I can just cycle he A/C on and off using the A/C button until the clutch grabs and the cool air proceeds. Eventually the clutch disengages, for whatever reason, and then won't re-engage due to gap and so I have to cycle the A/C on and off again.

So what is the better approach: Just replace with a new/used unit or get the clutch parts and change that? Also, is there a way I can save the new r134a I just put in and put it back in later; wishful thinking isn't it.

 

It may be possible to remove a shim from beneath clutch plate w/o discharging the system. Caution! I have not done this job or read of anyone who has done the job.

1) Disconnect battery negative terminal and remove alternator
2) You may need to remove pax side radiator fan for access, or maybe not.
3) Remove compressor mounting bolts and reposition compressor for access to clutch face. You may need to loose hose restraints to provide maximum flexibility.
4) Use clutch holding tool and ratchet to remove clutch plate retaining bolt, or use air impact wrench to remove bolt.
5) Check compressor gap w/ feeller gauge to verify it's outside spec.
6) Remove clutch plate carefully, as shims (2 usually) may stick to plate or stay on compressor side.
7) Remove shim which will bring gap to w/i spec (14-24 mils) and reinstall clutch plate & bolt and check gap is in spec.
8) Reverse installation