2005 Accord 3.0 LX, Automatic transmission,
Daughter said it sounded like a diesel engine when it shut down on her. Only code I was getting is P0161. Checked spark at plugs, no spark, did look black and sooty, replaced plugs. Rechecked valve clearances, all good. Checked timing belt and made sure all timing Mark's are correct, Engine starts, but will not go above 2000 rpm, engine rpms drop and th he engine surges at idle, then will shutdown. Have a scan tool, these are the readings.
DTCFRZF P0161
fuelsys1 OL
fuelsys1 OL
Load_PCT 78%
ETC 79
SHRTFT1 -10.2
LONGFT1 0.0
SHRTFT2 0.0
LONGFT2 0.0
MAP 23.0
SPARKADV -9
IAT 86
TP 17.3%
TP_R 7.1%
Replaced the fuse box under hood, due to the circuit board under the fuses, fired. Got a fuse box from Ebay for the same vehicle. Now also getting codes for misfires on cylinders 1,2,3 and 6.
at my wits end on this...... need help.......

Also don't think the vtec is operating also..... did the test light trick, no light came on.....
also checked engine oil Pressure, cold start 80#, when warmed up 20#

 

A lot going on here, so lets start with some basics.

Was any work done not long before this happened? Was the CEL on or other symptoms before you had this problem?

If your engine is running, then you have spark and fuel getting to the engine. I'm not sure why you aren't seeing spark on at least some coils when testing.

Were any of the fuses not working before you replaced the fuse box under the hood?

You may want to run through the fuses in both boxes with your test light just to see if you have a circuit issue.

Also, can the engine get to operating temperature and get to closed loop?

 

A valve job was done about 6 months ago, she burnt 3 valves, 2 on one head, one on the other. Found Camshaft sensor was bad, replaced it, ran good after that. Kept getting p0161 code..... no other codes appeared.
Bought a spark tester, have spark on all plugs...... on this episode...... when the engine went down, it was low on oil, at the tip of the dipstick.
On the fuse box, no fuses were blown, the area that the fuses for the lights are got hot and started to melt. After getting engine to run, took fuse box apart to try to repair the fuse connections. I seen where the circuit board that was under that area had gotten hot and was melting. Checked wiring harness the best that I can, looking for any damage. None found.
what's killing me is that the only codes I'm getting is the p0161, misfire on cylinder 1,2,3 and 6.
also the engine rpm will not go above 2000 rpm, then drop down, surge at idle then shut down.
One thing I did notice, is when you shut the car off, there is a delay on engine shutdown.
Oh, by the way, it was just the lights that was effected.... and they worked beforehand

 

Burnt valves are kind of rare. Why did you get burnt valves? Slightly low oil shouldn't cause this, unless the oil pressure light came on.

Cylinders 1-3 are on rear of the engine closest to the fire wall. Since you have a misfire for 1-3 (and 6), but not for 4&5, then you may have a problem on half the engine.

Were 2 of the burnt valves on the back half of the engine?

My best guess is to remove the catalytic converter connected to cylinders 1-3 to look for damage that is restricting flow? You may be able to remove the upstream O2 on top of the converter. If the engine runs better, then you may have a clogged converter.

 

Two of the valves were on the 1,2,3 side. Will remove the sensor tomorrow night, see how it goes.

 

Sorry for the delay on the response.
pulled sensor, cleared codes.....
Had engine at temp according to the temperature gauge on dash.....
P2649
P0135
P2628
P0161
P0154
DTCF4ZF - P2649
FUELSYS1 - N/A
FUELSYS2 - N/A
LOAD_PCT - 0.0
ETC - 88
SHRTFT1 - 0.0
LONGFT1 - 0.0
SHRTFT2 - 0.0
LONGFT2 - 0.0
MAP - 29.5
RPM - 0
VSS - 0
SPARKADV - 0
IAT - 90
TP% - 16.9
TP/R% - 6.7
Engine started to run rough after hitting temp. That sensor that I pulled was sooty black.

 

A lot of the codes are for the O2 sensor that you had unplugged. I'd reinstall the sensor, then clear the codes.

Start the engine and get it to closed loop (CL), so operating temperature. See what code(s) return.

The P2649 is concerning, because it indicates an issue with the VTEC system that adjusts the valve timing to get better performance.

Since you had to replace valves in the past, did you determine why you had burnt valves?

 

Yes, it is a lot of codes.....
in terms of the burnt valves, There was a lot of burnt oil/carbon buildup on the valves. The engine has been blowing blue smoke on startup. Then clears, that leads me to think of valve guide seals. After doing the valve job, the compression is around the 120# psi mark.
I had later found that the PCV Valve was in pieces in the manifold, had to remove the inner cover to get all the pieces out. Resealed the cover when I put it back on.
when I pulled the sensor, it was extremely sooty.....
In terms of the VTEC, I had removed it to check the screen and it was clear. While there, I checked the solenoid, it clicked when I put power to it, the plunger was moving freely.
It has fresh 5w-20 oil and filter.
Test drive vehicle with led test light to see if the vtec was activating, could not get above 2000 rpm, the led did not light.
Checked oil Pressure, 80# when cold down to 20# after warming up.

 

APPARENTLY I had somehow caused the VTEC solenoid and VTEC oil Pressure become disconnected while removing the sensor.
reinstalled sensor, cleared codes. Started engine, let to warm up to normal temperature according to the dash gauge.
Got these codes:
P0161, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0300, P0304.
DTCFRZF P0161
FUELSYS1 OL
FUELSYS2 OL
LOAD_PCT% 74.5
ETC /F 84
SHRTFT1% -10.2
LONGFT1% 0.0
SHRTFT2% 0.0
LONGFT2% 0.0
MAP 22.0
RPM 1042, TECH WAS SITTING AT 750
VSS 0
SPARKADV -3
IAT% 97
TP% 5.9
Engine started to miss badly, and shut down, after getting warmed up..

 

Since you measured oil pressure, can you measure the fuel pressure?