Hello, I go a bit of information so bare with me. Last week Tuesday my car died in the middle of rush hour traffic, battery was dead. Got a jump from a buddy was able to get home, less than 3 miles away. Before my card died my battery light flashed real quick so i figured it was my alternator. So since my alternator was a year old I got a replacement. Swapped it out, charged up the battery with a home charger and figured it was good to go but battery still came on intermittently. It typically came on when I slowed down, going over a bump or turning. Never came on at a stand still.
So I went Autozone to get it checked showed up my alternator is super healthy and battery was good. So I started to check stuff around the alternator, belt, other pulleys, belt tensioner. Saw the belt tensioner bouncing around a bit and the pulley had quite a bit of wear so I figured it could be that, so I replaced the belt tensioner and belt. After that I still was getting a battery light intermittently.
Check the battery cables for damage and cleaned off the grounds I could reach, still doing the same thing. 2 out of the 3 brake light bulbs were out, then the 3rd one went out change the bulbs, still doing the same thing, intermittent battery while I was braking or slowing down or turning. So I read about a brake switch, read the switch is bad under other symptoms so I said what the hell. Battery light still coming.
Took it to Honda for some recalls, driver and passenger side airbags and secondary shaft bearing update. Get the same battery light, didnt think it would help but you never know. So I bought a multimeter and circuit tester and started investigating. Noticed I got short somewhere by checking with the circuit tester. Checked my battery, holding above 13.00v and under load.
Starting checking fuses found quite a bit that didnt turn on in the under dash fuse box. Then while checking the fuses ALL my interior lights lost power. The courtesy light, dome light, no radio or clock, the dash light doesnt turn on when door opens. The car starts right up also, im uncomfortable with driving it around town or to work because I think the battery will be drained to death by something I dont know about.
Before all this happened I noticed 3 door speakers dont work anymore, passenger door speaker still works. My keyless entry doesnt work on the driver door anymore. I was able to set the alarm but not anymore. My driver door lock doesnt work anymore have to open and lock with key.
So now im at a loss trying to figure this out, need some direction with this, some how isolate the issue. I read a lot of people having interior light issues on here, seems pretty common to have such a gremlin wrecking havoc on your car. Also, this happen after labor day weekend where there was a lot of rain for 2 days. Thanks for your time and help, apologies for the drawn out post.

 

Start by checking fuses.

First check under-hood Fuse No. 15 (40A).

If under-hood Fuse no. 15 is good, then check under-dash Fuse No. 5 (10A), Fuse No. 6 (7.5A), Fuse No. 7 (10A), Fuse No. 8 (20A), Fuse No. 18 (7.5A) and Fuse No. 21 (15A).

 

Didn't have the 40A in the no 15 under the hood and the other fuses were no good

 

If you don't have the fuse in the under-hood Fuse No. 15 slot, then the following fuses won't have power:

• Under-hood Fuse No. 7.
• Under-dash Fuse Nos. 5,6,7, 8, and 9.

 

I goofed up when I was looking at the fuses the other night and put it in the no 20 slot. Put back into 15 and 5,6,7,8 and 9 work. I didnt get anything from 18 and 21. I was checking all the fuses and I came to the wiper fuse no 11 (30A) didnt light up but they worked when I turned the car on. I also read your reply on a someone elses thread that 24,25 and 26 only work if the driver door multiplex is working properly? Because those fuses for me dont light up either

 

Under-hood fuse no. 18 and no. 21 should only get power when the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III) position.

If they don't have power with the ignition switch in ON or START, then check the under-hood Fuse No. 23. Fuse No. 23 is a large multi-fuse (50A/50A).

No power to under-hood fuse no. 18 and no. 21 will prevent your alternator from charging or not properly. Specifically fuse no. 18 (via the Blk/Yel wire) supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly. Without power from no. 18, your alternator should not charge.

Fuse no. 21 affects the ELD unit, which together with the ECM/PCM can control the alternator's charge mode (e.g., high or low output).

 

Well they all had power to the fuses

 

What are the remaining issues since you placed under-hood fuse no. 15 back?

 

Well my Keyless entry doesnt work on my driver door have to use the key and I havent drove it yet but I might still have that intermittent battery light when I slow down or hold on to the brake and sometimes when I turn.

 

The battery light (charge system) is probably a separate issue.

Let me get some more information regarding the door lock(s).

With the remote transmitter; other than the driver's door, does the other doors lock/unlock?

When you use the key, does the other doors unlock when you turn the key a second time? (First turn, unlocks only driver's door.)

For the driver's door, does the power door lock work with the door lock switch?