I've got a 2006 accord with 120k miles on it. I am replacing the rear brake pads & rotors, but I noticed that the hubs take a fair amount of force to rotate. They definitely don't spin freely once I've stopped applying force to turn the hub. I have no brake pads on then currently, so it's the discs only with no pads, calipers, or tires.

How freely should they turn?

I know that's hard to relate, but here's my suggested descriptions based on how long they'd keep spinning after giving them a good spin.

• Very easily (ie keep spining several rotations after giving them a good spin)
• Easily (make 1 rotation or so after a good spin)
• OK (stop with barely any rotation)
• Barely (they spin w/fair amount of force, but stop dead after giving them a good spin)

Here's a quick video of how much force is needed to turn.
FYI - I should note that they don't make any horrible tell-tale "going bad" grinding noises. I have a and I can barely hear any internal noises when I turn them.

 

I was going to go with "OK" in your list?

Stop by a parts store and see/ask if they have a replacement in stock. Ask them if you can see it and give the new one a spin and make the call from there? Just an idea....

 

I agree w/ PM. The bearing pre-load causes a significant amount of drag at low rpms. It must be negligible additional at speed or they would find another solution.

good luck

 

I searched "bearing preload drag" and got a lot of results.

I thought following link was helpful to show that broadly, you can't be very precise no matter what method is used. So follow manufacturer's recommendations for best results. It appears the adjustment is not terribly critical as long as all play is removed and preload is established.

Adjustment procedures

good luck

 

If you check a new bearing at the store, it's seals will not be worn in. A wheel bearing that's been in use for 120k miles should spin a little bit more freely than a new one with fresh seals.

I'd say they should be "easy" to "OK" especially with the momentum of the rotor still attached. If the rotor is not attached, then maybe one revolution or less coasting when you give it a spin.

 

I just replaced a front bearing on my other car, Chrysler T&C and the failed bearing rotated "Very Easily" with a slight vibration and small grinding noise.
The noise was noticeable from inside the vehicle, when driving 30 mph, so much so, you needed to turn the radio up louder.

 

I looked at a new set at the parts store, and talked with the guy there, and I think mine are fine.

After putting the new rotors on, there's a little more mass to spin, and they bump up to the "OK spin" category as described above. From my research, it appears that too much spin can mean a bad bearing, so I think my video shows a good bearing.

As @TexasHonda mentioned - It's not like skateboard/rollerblade bearings where they spin for a long time after being spun.

 

They're carrying more weight, so the preload has to be higher than skateboard wheels.

They USUALLY get easier as the seals polish themselves, but still won't spin a long time.

Maybe you can think of "too much spin" like the seals have worn so they barely touch. That lets water/salt/crud into the bearings & they won't last long after that.

 

a wheel bearing is a fairly big bearing...u should be more concerned with if its making noise ... a new bearing is actually surprisingly tight at first