good afternoon! I have a 2006 Honda Accord that died on me on the freeway. there is the green key blinking on the dash, and the fuel pump is not kicking on when I turn the key over. when I hook up my scan tool. I do get lights coming on. but only the SRS and ABS areas are showing up.
I did check with a multimeter and I am not getting power to the connections under the orange relay PSM1, which I believe it is listed as. I believe it all stemmed from power to that one relay. the second relay under the kickpanel at the driver's feet next to the coil pack relay

is there anything that I can track to see what actually powers that relay connector? it goes into the fuse box and getting those back connectors off the fusebox to pull it out seems very difficult at best. From my search, it appears that the ECM controls that circuit but I don't really want to start replacing things just because.

 

Which fuse box is a fuse not getting power? Also, can you tell us the fuse number and the amperage?

It may help to post a picture to understand what fuses/relays you are referencing.

A shop manual will help with wiring diagrams. automanualsource.com has a pdf for your car for $22 and is worth the investment for DIY work.

Before replacing any parts, I think you will have more volt meter testing to do to narrow down the problem.

 

I'm sorry of I was not clear. It is not a fuse that is not getting power it is The Orange relay. Then I pull The relay and check the female cavities. I'm getting nothing

 

That is the PGM-FI1 relay. It sends power to the fuel pump relay and to a bunch of other items.

That relay gets power from the under hood fuse box #8 15 amp FI ECU fuse. You should check for power on both top tabs of that fuse to make sure it is not blown.

 

12.8v on both sides of That fuse.


When grounding out to a bolt, all of the connections get 12v except the one in this picture

 

Most relays will have 2 pins with power and 2 that have no power and are permanently or switched to ground. On that particular relay, 3 pins will have 12V and one will not. The pin without 12V is the power output of the relay when the relay is turned on. So your testing is normal.

Since the fuel pump is not turning on, I'd probably remove the access panel in the trunk and test for power at the fuel pump. Pin 5 yel/grn should get power when you turn the key to the II position for a few seconds when the car primes the fuel pump. Pin 4 is the ground wire for the fuel pump and should have ~zero resistance to ground. See pic below.

Also, any chance you have an aftermarket security system installed on your car?

 

So just to be clear, #5 will only get power for a few seconds when The key is turned to the on position.

Normal testing I have no power. I Dont have a second person currently to turn The ignition and hold the prongs In to the volt meter.

The green immobilizer light is on. The battery died from sitting. It was not on before The battery died.
I only have the one key. It is aftermarket. No buttons. No aftermarket alarm

 

I think you are dealing with an immobilizer issue, where the immobilizer isn't recognizing the key for some reason. I'd probably disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, reconnect to see if the immobilizer light goes away.

There are some extensive tests you can do to figure out what is going on. You almost are to the point where you'd need a scanner that can handle communication with the immobilizer to do testing. This makes working on modern cars frustrating for a DIYer.