2006 Honda Accord EX-L V4 - P1028 problem
#1
2006 Honda Accord EX-L V4 - P1028 problem
Hi,
I have been getting the P1028 problem on my Honda Accord. Took it a local workshop and they replaced the thermostat for $135. Two days later the problem came up again. Took it again to them and they said the coolant temp senor is also gone and replaced it for $95. Two days and $230 later the check engine light has come up again with the same code. Looking for some good advice here. I dont want to take it back to the workshop and spend more money. Any help is greatly appreciated...
I have been getting the P1028 problem on my Honda Accord. Took it a local workshop and they replaced the thermostat for $135. Two days later the problem came up again. Took it again to them and they said the coolant temp senor is also gone and replaced it for $95. Two days and $230 later the check engine light has come up again with the same code. Looking for some good advice here. I dont want to take it back to the workshop and spend more money. Any help is greatly appreciated...
#2
I don't know of any V4 engines, its either a V6, or and I4.
There are two temperature sensors on your car. The diagnostics are confusing, because you use the scanner to test the items.
It looks like there are two temperature sensors on your car that are involved. When you have an engine code, the problem can be from the sensors, the wiring, or the engine computer.
I don't know which one they replaced, but I remember reading the the ECT #2 that is on the bottom of the radiator could get corroded and cause problems. It is on the drivers side and the engine side of the radiator. ECT #1 is on the engine block.
There are two temperature sensors on your car. The diagnostics are confusing, because you use the scanner to test the items.
It looks like there are two temperature sensors on your car that are involved. When you have an engine code, the problem can be from the sensors, the wiring, or the engine computer.
I don't know which one they replaced, but I remember reading the the ECT #2 that is on the bottom of the radiator could get corroded and cause problems. It is on the drivers side and the engine side of the radiator. ECT #1 is on the engine block.
#3
I don't know of any V4 engines, its either a V6, or and I4.
There are two temperature sensors on your car. The diagnostics are confusing, because you use the scanner to test the items.
It looks like there are two temperature sensors on your car that are involved. When you have an engine code, the problem can be from the sensors, the wiring, or the engine computer.
I don't know which one they replaced, but I remember reading the the ECT #2 that is on the bottom of the radiator could get corroded and cause problems. It is on the drivers side and the engine side of the radiator. ECT #1 is on the engine block.
There are two temperature sensors on your car. The diagnostics are confusing, because you use the scanner to test the items.
It looks like there are two temperature sensors on your car that are involved. When you have an engine code, the problem can be from the sensors, the wiring, or the engine computer.
I don't know which one they replaced, but I remember reading the the ECT #2 that is on the bottom of the radiator could get corroded and cause problems. It is on the drivers side and the engine side of the radiator. ECT #1 is on the engine block.
Is the replacement part same for both sensors? Is it something I can take a shot at replacing myself. I don't want to pay $70 labor again to replace a $25 part.
Would there be any pictures available online showing the location of the ECT #2?
#4
First picture shows waterpump and the ECT#1 is labeled as #14 in the drawing.
Second picture shows the radiator and the #2 sensor in the lower tank is labeled as #10.
Don't forget to check for bad wiring at either sensor. Dirty/loose/corroded pins in the plug? Broken wires? Anything like that?
If you're quick, and prepared to put the new sensor right into the hole when you remove the old sensor, you probably only lose a couple ounces of antifreeze.
Second picture shows the radiator and the #2 sensor in the lower tank is labeled as #10.
Don't forget to check for bad wiring at either sensor. Dirty/loose/corroded pins in the plug? Broken wires? Anything like that?
If you're quick, and prepared to put the new sensor right into the hole when you remove the old sensor, you probably only lose a couple ounces of antifreeze.
#5
First picture shows waterpump and the ECT#1 is labeled as #14 in the drawing.
Second picture shows the radiator and the #2 sensor in the lower tank is labeled as #10.
Don't forget to check for bad wiring at either sensor. Dirty/loose/corroded pins in the plug? Broken wires? Anything like that?
If you're quick, and prepared to put the new sensor right into the hole when you remove the old sensor, you probably only lose a couple ounces of antifreeze.
Second picture shows the radiator and the #2 sensor in the lower tank is labeled as #10.
Don't forget to check for bad wiring at either sensor. Dirty/loose/corroded pins in the plug? Broken wires? Anything like that?
If you're quick, and prepared to put the new sensor right into the hole when you remove the old sensor, you probably only lose a couple ounces of antifreeze.
So, both ECT#1 and 2 use the same part. Am I right?
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