The fobs can be ruled out. I tend to work down the line. The fob sends a signal to the antenna in the driver's switch. The drivers switch communicates digitally to the MICU to unlock the doors. The issue is that the buttons you push on the driver's door switch also use the same wire to communicate to the MICU to lock/unlock the doors.

Not to say the MICU isn't the issue, I just would check the wiring to the driver's switch first.

 

The wiring looks fine. When I put the brand new switch in, the performance actually got worse. Not sure if that is a clue or not.

The contacts between the 23-pin and the switch look pristine. I tried a bit of QD electronic cleaner. It didn't make a difference.

Any other ideas? Thanks!

 

I'd say to actually test the connector to the switch for powers and ground. If they test good, then maybe the MICU. I don't see how it could be the MICU, but I also don't see a good way to test electrically without something like an oscilloscope. I'd probably get a used MICU and a door switch from a junkyard if the electrical tests on the wire harness pass as my instincts say the door switch seems more likely.

The 23 pin connector on the driver's door switch is numbered along the long rows. So 1-5, then the release clip, then 6-10. Bottom row 11-23. Slots 5 and 15 do not have a wire.

The yellow wire at pin 20 and grn/wht wire at pin 10 are powers. yel at pin 20 is switched on by the ignition switch and grn/wht at pin 20 is constant power. Pin 1 is black and is constant ground. Use a 12V test light and test the power pins with the clip of the test light connected to a good ground like any bare metal bolt. Then test the ground by connecting the test light clip to power then touch the black wire.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to test it. :-(