Okay, thanks Sean. I only thought if the switch after Redbull mentioned it. I have an extra one, and it's too late to return it now. I might as well give it a shot. I will let you
know how it works out. So based on what I have described here, you don't think I somehow messed up the ECU calibration with the TPS when I removed the throttle body? I did open the butterfly and wiped some residue off where it meets the plate.

 

I don't think so at all. Personally I eliminated fuel and I throttle issue immediately only because the pumps don't have issues this early and the throttle shoild not have been terribly dirty.

 

Update: I changed the starter switch as Redbull had suggested. To my surprise, I think that fixed the problem. My hat goes off to you, Redbull. Sean, thank you for your insights as well. I think it all makes sense now.
A year ago I bought the 2010 with only 50k miles, which, at the time, looked like a great deal. What I didn't realize was that with such low mileage, the person must have done a lot of short rips, continually starting and turning off the car.
Long story short, this wore out the whole starting system: the starter got the brunt of the wear and was the first thing to show issues (intermittently I would hear it turning but not engage internally to make the sprocket spin to turn the flywheel).
Then I think when I changed it, the wear on the ignition switch became more pronounced (it was always there but wasn't bad enough to fail completely). At any rate, now with both new parts starting feels much crisper, like what you would expect.
The warm start issue seems to be gone: yesterday I changed the switch and then started it cold, which was fine. I warmed it up and then turned it off. Then I started it again to drive it up on ramps to change the oil. After changing the oil, it started up
again fine so that I could take it off the ramps. Time will tell, but the problem appears to be resolved. Thanks again guys for your help.
Mark