2011 Honda accord 3.5 L not charging
Hello
I have a 2011 Accord with 3.5L that is not charging. Grandson got stranded at the donut shop and had to be taken to school. I have replaced the alternator and installed a new battery. I checked at the post on top of the alternator, and it reads battery voltage with lights on and engine running. I can't find any posts related to this and am I am at wit's end. There are 4 wires on the back of the alternator, but I have no idea what they should read on the meter. The wires are Red, Green, Blue and White. I have checked all fuses and they look fine on meter. With the car running, battery voltage drains lower as the time passes, and car will die as soon as soon as I remove the positive terminal. (I know I'll get some flack from doing that, but that's fine) I simply am lost. Would an auto code reader/diagnostic tool help at all at this point? I'm a disabled veteran, so money is tight raising 2 grandchildren. I hate to give up and surrender.
Thanks
Any replies are appreciated.
I have a 2011 Accord with 3.5L that is not charging. Grandson got stranded at the donut shop and had to be taken to school. I have replaced the alternator and installed a new battery. I checked at the post on top of the alternator, and it reads battery voltage with lights on and engine running. I can't find any posts related to this and am I am at wit's end. There are 4 wires on the back of the alternator, but I have no idea what they should read on the meter. The wires are Red, Green, Blue and White. I have checked all fuses and they look fine on meter. With the car running, battery voltage drains lower as the time passes, and car will die as soon as soon as I remove the positive terminal. (I know I'll get some flack from doing that, but that's fine) I simply am lost. Would an auto code reader/diagnostic tool help at all at this point? I'm a disabled veteran, so money is tight raising 2 grandchildren. I hate to give up and surrender.
Thanks
Any replies are appreciated.
The fuse is good. I checked with voltmeter and it also checks continuity with the ohmmeter (with battery cable disconnected).
The battery icon is still lit, and I get no check engine light.
I'm lost.
The battery icon is still lit, and I get no check engine light.
I'm lost.
Would it pay me to purchase an automotive diagnostic scanner?
I'm thinking if the ecm was open-circuit, I would get a check engine light?
Thanks
I'm thinking if the ecm was open-circuit, I would get a check engine light?
Thanks
I don't think a scanner will help you in this case. A volt meter will be enough.
All of these are with the engine is running, what is the actual voltage across the battery posts? What is the voltage from the large post on the alternator to the negative battery post? What is voltage from the large alternator post to the positive battery post?
All of these are with the engine is running, what is the actual voltage across the battery posts? What is the voltage from the large post on the alternator to the negative battery post? What is voltage from the large alternator post to the positive battery post?
From your tests, the alternator is not putting out voltage and the charging cable is likely good.
I suspect that you got a bad alternator out of the box. Was the alternator a rebuilt from a parts store like AutoZone, O'Reillys, etc?
I suspect that you got a bad alternator out of the box. Was the alternator a rebuilt from a parts store like AutoZone, O'Reillys, etc?
Purchased new alternator from AutoZone for around $329.00. It is not an OEM though.
I can pull it again and take it to them and see if they can test it.
(another 2 hours and I'll have it out)
I'll post back with results.
Thank you for your help
I appreciate it
I can pull it again and take it to them and see if they can test it.
(another 2 hours and I'll have it out)
I'll post back with results.
Thank you for your help
I appreciate it
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