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my rear brake lines have rusted out and the fuel lines were just about. so i've already removed the gas tank and all the lines, but i'm not seeing the information posted anywhere or i don't know how to search for it, just what is the size of each line? and the rubber hoses? i can find the part number but no information attached to it. line is too rused to reliably measure.
3/16" for the brake lines. 1/4" for the fuel feed?? 3/16" for the return and vapor?
TIA
i promise to post the pics and some things i learned when the job is done.
Brake line 3/16"
Fuel vapor and return 1/4"
Fuel feed 5/16"
Is that right??
this is from measuring an uncorroded spot. but i grew up in SA and am not super familiar with standard measurements. the outer diameter is ok? also, i have no caliper and am using a measuring tape.
Last edited by rikkitikki; Jan 28, 2022 at 09:30 PM.
Repairing your plumbinb / brake lines / fuel lines story
1997 Honda Accord Sedan LX 5th generation
Car was from northern USA and has minor salt damage, nothing to call home about.
I'm a broke university student in their last year of their STEM degree making less than minimum wage after taxes.
October
Damn!, I lost my brakes when that Jaguar didn't signal their turn and I had to slam on the brakes. That was a frightening experience. Luckily, I drive manual and can just limp home on the hand brake and down shifting.
I check the my wheels for brake fluid and none have liquid dripping on them, the tray is also dry, it must be by the gas tank. I drove the car to the mechanic where it sat for several weeks.
November
I called the mechanic and they told me their mechanic quit a few weeks ago. So I took my car to a chain quicky mechanic; they see one rusted bolt on the fuel tank strap and start asking me questions like "how much do you like this car? it's gonna be looking like at least $1600", "don't touch the car, i'm coming to get it now". So my minimum wage job decided for me, "you shall make the repair yourself but at least you'll save all that money you didn't have anyway". Oh, and the shop emptied my full gas tank and kept it; thanks. In the USA, if you do not have a car you are nothing.
December
Preliminary inspection to see what rusted bolt set off the mechanic. My buddy came over with a sense of adventure, and to lend his pump jack and stands.
1. Always use stands and chock the wheels while lifting a car. You can only afford to make this mistake once, then you're dead or maimed. Once my car was lifted I kept it in gear, engaged the hand brake, and disconnected the battery (to prevent accidental start in gear).
2. Remove the exhaust from suspension. I didn't even detach it, I just let it lay on the ground, which was probably a mistake that ended up cracking my exhaust (it was partially rusted where it broke).
3. Partially remove the exhaust upper heat shield. I removed my inferior heat shield due to rust and rattling.
4. Remove the fuel tank shield. This was surprisingly difficult but flexible enough that we could just yank and push it through the tight space
exhaust dangling beneath car. note upper heat shield disconnected from chassis. fuel tank shield pushed forward under car. forward driver's side of fuel tank. note plumbing coming from tray on right and fuel lines dropping down next to the tank on left. rusted fuel lines behind rear driver's wheel.
Oh, boy. I had read on the forums about people not using the factory brake line route and not removing the old line, but when I saw these fuel lines I know I was in for something big. Well, if I ruin the car while fixing it nothing changes since I still don't have a car.
When I tried to remove the gas tank straps, I found one of the bracket bolts rusted and free spinning on the rear passenger side. This was a scary challenge but one that ended up being easy to overcome. There are only two fuel tank strap brackets, both tucked under the sub frame.
this bolt is attached to the fuel tank strap bracket, which is bolted to the chassis beneath the subframe. this is what the bracket should look like once the strap is removed. this is the rear passenger fuel tank strap bracket.
With no hope for getting the project done before winter break starts, I stowed my tools away and wouldn't try again for over a month.
January
After university assignments, traveling with family, and not making any money, I was finally ready to start researching what the heck I had ahead of me. I again started researching manuals, forum posts, youtube videos, PDFs, and nothing was specific enough; I was just going to have to have at it and removing parts to figure out how to put it back together. My goal now was to remove the gas tank and fuel filter so I could remove the old and lay the new plumbing.
5. Remove rear driver's splash shield and disconnected the gas tank plumbing (2 behind splash shield for filling, 3 going towards front of car)
6.
5th gen 1997 accord LX new lines
Repairing your plumbinb / brake lines / fuel lines story
