Don't know if someone already posted a DIY or w/e already but does anyone know how to change the rear pads on a 6th gen accord(98-02)? for some reason my rear left wheel is squeeling, like if that break feeler thing is telling me that the pads are almost worn out, but the thing is that it still has a lot of life left in the pads. Anyone know what is going on? im thinking it is probably time to just change all the pads. or do i just have to relube it or w/e? anyone with any suggestions? i really hate the sound of it, it even makes the sound while im driving, even when im off the breaks, practically makes a sound if the road isnt smooth. i already tried to remove the bottom bolt off the caliper to make it swing open, but it seems like it wasnt meant to swing open or w/e, like you need to remove the all the bolts connected to the caliper just to get to the pads. any help?

 

What is the condition of the disc brake itself? is it nice and shiny or rusty? the reason i ask is that the 2 caliper bolts (one on top and one on bottom of the caliper) are suppose to float/move when you supress the brake. if they aren't greased they dont move, if they dont move the inside pad is the only one that grabs and wears out faster.
But yes you need to remove both top and bottom bolts to get the caliper and pads off. if they wont move then they're probably rusted and need more motivation to get them off (e.g. blow torch, hammer and vice grips). be careful with heat around rubber boots!! but if it needs it it needs it, rubber boots for this is simple hardware to get at an auto parts store.
Tell me if this helps any

 

the disk is pretty fine as is, like the outer is shiny and all that, but the inside fins are rusted. The pads have like probably 50% or a little more life left in them. anyone else has any ideas? because i want to have as much info as possible before i start to take it apart or w/e

 

IIRC, you have to unhook the handbrake cable in order to swing the caliper out. Hydraulic hose on one side, cable on other, cable is much easier to unhook.

Take the pads out & check them for wearing into a wedge-shape. If you simply take off the wheel you can't get a complete view of the inboard pad. Maybe it really IS the wear screetch tab. If they're worn like this you have to check the caliper slide pins because something is sticking.

Then put some brake caliper grease on the back side of the pads(not the friction surface). Or maybe some of that anti-squeal goop, like rubbery glue.

 

Most likely the noise you hear is the inner wear bar hitting on the rotor

No need to unhook anything,, just remove the 2 bolts at the caliper ( top and bottom ) then move caliper out of the way ,, when installing new pads you have to turn in the piston so new pads will fit ,, also as adviced make sure that both sliding caliper pins are not frozen ,, they should slide in and out ,,

 

okay, thanks for the help guys. So im guessing that all i have to do is like replace all the brake pads on all 4's, sounds like fun. Also one thing, my car is abs and when either replacing or adding brake fluid, does it really take longer to bleed or fill because there has to be brake fluid in the abs system (i can't think of the proper name right now). Also, you think i should stick with oem pads with the original disks, or get brembo oem replacement pads and stick with the original disks? I was thinking of one day to get brembo oem replacement drilled/slotted rotors and the brembo or hawk pads. anyone think its a good idea?

 

PB Blaster is a much better way to remove the bolts than a torch ..... just make sure that you also have a can of brake cleaner to get rid of the blaster over-spray. As for pads, I have Hawk HPS all around on Brembo Sport drilled rotors. They work beautifully! My best friend has EBC Redstuff and claims that they are better (he's had HPS also). I think that the Redstuff pads compare better to the HP's, but I've never used either. HP also has a very good reputation. I'd stay away from the Brembo pads because while they are rated very highly for stopping power, they also produce a lot of dust. If you are not a spirited driver, the Yellowstuff pads might be a good for you also. OEM's will likely last the longest, but this is really not a concern of mine considering that any of the recommended pads will last over 2 years.

 

I wouldn't think you would need to change all 4 if the front 2 are still fine......just change both setsof the rear wheel pads.