Ok after 3 weeks of taking off from the car (tore a forearm muscle working on the biotch) i tackled the alternator. Ended up getting a ball joint separator and a couple of other tools. Got it all apart and the new one in... New belts on... and fixed the father in laws damaged heater core hose from crushing it in. Fuel pump continues to not want to work if not cranked daily.. had to key it 100 times or more today before it decided to work and it worked consistently after that (not sure whats up ... bad pump yet again or a going bad relay?) Well it cranked up and no battery light yay. Then noticed a pretty good oil leak. Now it is on jackstands on both sides of the front so its tilted back. I cannot really tell where its coming from though. We used a really old oil filter we found in the truck.. maybe the seal? Maybe the oil pan? Its definitely coming from that area though but its a concerning good drip. going to really clean it up and then crank up and see if we can see better. The other thing... the lower ball joint is shot. The stud is bent, threads messed up, and boot torn. So went and bought a ball joint. So next get to try and get the sucker out without buying a kit (hoping socket and hammer method works) and then install (i hear lithium grease and putting ball joint in freezer for a while helps) Any suggestions?

 

and not sure which or if all belts squeeling on crank.. damn.. thought we had those suckers cranked down.

 

I was wondering how the alt went.

Anyway, many places rent tools that will help with replacing the ball joint - you put down some money, use the tool, then get your money back. Be sure to remove the "clip" before trying to press out the old ball joint.....and put it back once the new one is in.

When looking for the oil leak - be sure to inspect the area around the oil pressure switch.

Belts- well it is going to be the PS or alt belt. I know the PS can be "fun" to get tight since there isn't a real good way of putting tension on it besides a nice pry bar. If it is the alt belt, don't over tighten it or you will wear out the wp bearings.....ask me how I know this - yes I did. But not that bad because the wp CAN BE changed without removing the timing cover.....been there done that.

 

Pretty sure its the alt belt. Got on ground and tugged on belt parallel to ground and about an inch or more of play....heck could be both. I cleaned under engine real good yesterday...will let dry.....after working on belts more will crank her up to try and pinpoint oil better. Where is the oil pressure switch relative to filter? Secondly, is the hose that attaches to oil pan a breather hose just for air or does it carry oil?

 

Oil pressure switch is right above the oil filter - many times to change the switch it is easier to remove the oil filter.

That "tube" is a breather tube - at the top where it "pokes" thru the intake is the PCV. That hose, I know I have....brand new in my hand. Now I'm not sure if it fits the carb or FI models - 11856-PH2-000. Strange the parts I have under my chair . The date on the invoice is from '11 - so I'm not sure which 3rd gen I got it for. Usually what happens, IMO, is that when you go to change the PCV, the hose is so brittle that it breaks into pieces.

 

Is it a tube I could get at parts store or special order?

 

You'll have to get the PCV breather tube from the dealer, online dealers have them ~$15. I posted the PN of the one I have and it looks like it fits the "carb" models - which I don't own one of those anymore - and this time I know I have the part, it is right here to my left.

The tube goes from the oil pan to and "thru" the intake manifold - the PCV sits in the top of it where it "pokes" thru the intake manifold.

See #6 in the pic.

 

What is #3 in the pic? I think thats what I noticed .a horizontal tube not poking up

 

That is another "tube" - vent. Not sure if that is still available from the dealer or not. You might be able to get a piece of hose from a parts store and "make it work" - as my memory tells me the OE hose had a taper to it - meaning one end is X size and the other is Y.

 

Don't think its leaking...I didn't have a tool to fit in there...how u change that sucker? A short 240k socket?.. not enough room for a wrench or deep well. I watched it leak and it seems to be coming from oil pan drip every minute or so