This is a crank, no start

 

That is a lot of information. Don't replace any more parts until you use your volt meter to figure out the problem.

Let us know what fuse blew with information like which fuse box, fuse #, description, amps. Does this fuse blow all of the time?

Try out your multi-meter to measure voltage across both battery posts. You should read ~12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. Move the black lead on your volt meter to a bare metal bolt instead of the negative battery terminal and read voltage. This will be the kind of testing you will need to do at the main fuel relay to figure out what is causing your issue.

Does your car have an aftermarket security/alarm system installed in the vehicle? You can tell by looking under the dash on the driver's side for wires that are not neatly in the original wiring harness going to a metal box (the security control unit). It should be pretty obvious if this is installed.

 

My battery is fully charged. My car does not have an aftermarket security system.

 

I do not think the battery is the problem. I suggested practicing using your volt meter on the battery so you can test other electrical circuits to troubleshoot.

You identified the fuel pump is not priming, so you will need to test at the connector for the main fuel relay. Can you help by taking a picture of the back of the main fuel relay electrical connector that shows the wire colors and post on here? I will give you tests based on the wire colors to test the ignition switch power to the main relay. The tests will determine if the ignition switch is the reason your fuel pump isn't turning on.

I also want you to check fuse 10 again to make 100% sure the fuse is still good. Fuses don't normally blow unless the wiring draws excessive current. When the fuse did blow, were you doing any work or testing on your accord?

 

No LED at unit so no code

 

Thanks again. relay and the harness good. fuel pump connector good, ECU, and a whole slew of other connectors and everything was fine except for the one white wire I already talked about, on the harness for the ECU which led to the valve assembly solenoid hose #5 and they all tested functional. if there is a way to test the ECU itself? Starter is fine

The 7 P goes Top LtoR: White/Red, Yellow, Blue/Wht, Blk/wht
........and Bottom LtoR White, Blk/Yellow, and White/Black

 

I still would like to hear how to test if the ignition is not powering the relay, because i am unable to determine if the book is telling me how to do that. All its having me check the ignition switch for is for continuity in the different key positions.

 

tested harnesses

 

checked the phuse again and its still good. jump to the pumph ran fine

 

I think you are looking at the same shop manual pdf I have. I'm now looking at page 12-52.

When you connected your volt meter in the above test to #4 blu/red and to #2 black wire and turned the key to start, did you have zero voltage?

The next step is to do the same test, but touch your black volt meter lead to a bare metal bolt and the red volt meter lead to the original #4 blu/red wire. Turn the key to start, then see if your volt meter reads voltage.