yes, i did it exactly how you said, the wire colors matched up and i used my book which has the same diagram. But i am puzzled becuase of my results. After looking at the wiring diagrams, i the starter should not have run during that, as it is not traditionally connected via these wires, or this II ignition. I feel like i may have realized this already though with the extra fuse removed. To elaborate, I know that when i was using the key in the ignition prior and testing that fuse I recieved a 9.5 volts assumed from the starter running and hearing the starter running. I recieved the same reading from the other 7.5 fuse and thought it was strange that they are both there. Anyway, I relaized there may be a doubling and why I fixated on the red/blue split at the relay. But really, I think i realized this doubling because I also know that i tested removing that fuse also, as well as the other 7.5 fuse that should be there (both separately) and turning the key in position III and the starter still ran. So I dont understand why the starter is running in key position II using your test but not when i use the key. I will say that I was startled when it ran because at first i got nothing and then i just readjusted the clip and sure enough it ran the starter. it was on the first block of 3 but with all parts of the test going at the same time. It shouldnt be that way should it?

 

Another thing that I am wondering...if you look at the first fuse diagram, It appears to me that the main place where all the inputs are taken to give to the ECU is in ignition1 where it says SEE a little camera icon #2 off of the white wire then the blk/yellow and fuse #2 under hood. And i said in previous post that the cruise control came on, i also checked the windshield wipers and they worked , but how do i know if the ECU is getting proper power in this key position? Getting power is one thing, getting proper power is another isnt it? which is why im wondering about an ignition1 only test. I dont mean the first key position, but specifically sectioning off the white and the black/yellow wire somehow and getting proper voltage to the ECU from that. And then doing those test all over again at the ECU for voltage. Im asking because if the second key position is cranking the starter somtimes, then could this be where some of the lower than battery readings are comming from? Because if you look at the readings I did for the ECU, number 13 is a yellow wire and the color of the wire at the SEE (camera icon) #2 its a yellow wire. And the readings were not 12/battery voltage across the board. It changes in each key position, including being 11.3 in key2 (possibly too much draw?) and then being only 9.3 in key 3, from the starter use. So, if that wire is not even supposed to be connected to the starter, than does it need 12 volts? Im wondering if that extra fuse is connecting the starter to the second key position when it shouldnt and then taking power away from what should be getting 12 volts? Or am i just thinking too much without knowing what im even doing.?

 

The only way the starter should turn on is when the black/white wire gets power. Be careful with the diagram, because black = BL and blue = Bu.

You can short that ignition switch in any way you like, then test at the proper ECU connector. If the starter is not cranking, you should have ~!2V (battery voltage) if power is being supplied.

 

yes my diagram clearly shows it saying blk. so if im getting the starter to run without that other wire, it beign the only one not used, then what do you think that means though? It doesnt mean the igintion is bad, because im by-passing the ignition right? It means the wiring is bad, and therefore possibly why either the ECu is not getting power, or why the relay isnt working the way it should right? Im thinking it is this extra fuse. Otherwise that there is an unintentional crossing of one of the wires but that seems less likely that that the extra fuse with the black white wire going to it has more to do with this. So do you think it would be helpful if i tried this same test but removed that fuse to see if the starter still runs? And if i did that, what would that actually tell me anyway. Have we at least determined that the iginiton works, or still not yet?I feel like we should be narrowing it down by now its been over a month. And so to run those tests at the ecu without having the starter run in key 2 i should only connect the second batch right?

 

Pull the fuse and see what happens. One of the wires you are jumping is crossed to the black/white wire, but you will need to eliminate. Eliminate the second group of jumps (white, black/yellow, and yellow). Let me know if the starter still cranks the engine with these items removed.

 

Can you explain to me why this is happening while jumping and not while the key is in the ignition? Meaning that im asking why i have never heard the starter run any of the times that i only had the key in the II position in the past?

 

The black/white wire has to be getting power when you jump the connectors on the ignition switch harness. I'm not sure why this is happening.

Try a resistance check between the blk/wht wire on the harness and the other wires. Based on the wiring diagram, the resistance should be infinity (open circuit).