yes its posted

 

Red/Blu on 14 showed no voltage, so I wondered the source of that wire. The 86-89 shop manual I worked from doesn't have that information. Was hoping to find a definitive failed test, but unfortunately, tests so far haven't revealed and issue.

If this were my car, I would disconnect the battery. Make sure the battery terminals are clean where the wire connects (since I recall you replaced them). I'd also clean all ends of both battery cables with sandpaper or a wire brush. Clean the bolt too. Make sure the ground connection to the body is clean. Clean the connections to where both + and - cables attach to under hood the fuse box. Your car has an important ground GND-1 in post #65 in the center of your engine bay. Hopefully your shop manual shows the location, so you can clean that as well. Then reattach the battery cables.

The tests where the grn/blk wire was grounded ruled out parts of a flaky ignition switch. With the consistent 9.3-10V readings on some wires to the ECU, you may want to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. A new switch runs about $30, so I hope you aren't wasting money and this fixes the problem.

The other item is the voltage across the battery when the engine is cranking (not after). If the battery voltage drops very low (<10V), you may have a bad battery. If you have someone that can jumpstart your car, that can help rule out a bad battery. Since your starter cranks the engine, I think your battery is strong enough. I'm listing this as a possibility.

 

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previously cleaned and checked. never has and never will drop below 12. never have an assistant. have a charger. How did testing one wire rule out a flaky ignition switch?

 

yeah after looking at this too now i see that red/blue wire # 14 (by pass control) conects somehow? to the A8 Vacuum control and now im thinking this is why i heard the clicking sound in the vacuum box and a problem at the #5 vacuum hose when i did the ECU harness test originally. And the two wires supposidly run to ignition 1, not the main relay. So maybe this does signify the ignition is bad? because if we tested the green blue wire at the relay then...that would not test the ignition 1 since its attached to ignition 2? other wise i have no idea what a bypass control is? do you? i did think it was wierd that the red/blue wire had absolutely no voltage and then tested continuity and found that to be also surprising. And if i go back and look at what else ignition 1 supplies im wondering if that is why some of those tiny light bulbs are not working? can ignition 1 go bad separate from ignition 2 and that is why it did not show up on the green wire fuel pump jump test?

 

now i also see why you may be saying to clean that engine ground, because that looks like where 16, and 18 go in the pinout and they read wonky also at that weird -.08 im assuming if they are grounds and grounding correctly they should read zero?
17 looks like great readings and coming straight from the battery though?
10+11 to erg and and eacv look same voltage and likely should be if tied to same wire but...
and A8 looks great and is tied to the red/blue A14?
i see now they( A10, A11, A8) are run to the same as the red/blue A14 wire and also off ignition...thought was #1 but its ignition #2....so....if those are all getting roughly 12 volts, and the red/blue nothing, and all 4 are off the same ignition wire then...the ignition is stil good, no? and it is a bad red blue wire maybe? what is the bypass control? and does it effect the ECU from not even showing an LED?

 

Please stop being argumentative. I'm trying to help. Replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch and hopefully this solves the problem.

 

looking further, #17 had voltage without the key in the ignition at all. ANd now, i see it is pretty direct to the battery. i tested the voltage off the ground bolt just like the rest. but this one showed full battery voltage without even having the key in the ignition. Is that normal?

 

Looking at your testing on the A-connector on the ECU and pins 2,4,6(?), 7, and 14 don't match what I would expect from the wiring diagram. This is assuming the wiring diagram is correct.

The measurements don't point towards one problem. Some readings point to a main relay issue and others point to an ignition switch problem.

Did you do the tests on ECU connector A with it unplugged? Do you happen to have the original main fuel relay?