What are the readings that you would expect to see?

 

7 should have 12V just like 1,3, and 5 in key 2. 1-7 should have 12V in key 3. It could be a problem with the injector on 7 or the connector.
14 should have 12V in key 2 (and key 3).
6 readings where it drops is also confusing. It should be identical to 12.
At first I though 2 & 4 should have 12V, but they are grounded, so you should get 0 V.

The drop to 10.3/9.3V on 13,15, and 17 is strange. 17 gets the power directly from the under hood fuse box from post #74. 13 and 15 from the main fuel relay. One of the reasons why I asked about the battery voltage when cranking repeatedly.

 

yes the #7 is a typo and does have the same readings as the other injectors.

Although i do not know and cant understand why 13, and 15 have a drop, i do think it is strange that 17 has power without the key even being in, (and also that it drops if)...if it is not supposed and *if* it is not supposed to be connected to the ignition at all. This brings my interest back to the random fuse hanging and the fact that i cant disconnec the starter by pulling either fuse, and the fact that the blk/wht wire on that hanging fuse is quite a bit thicker than the other one, and also brings my mind back to the double blue/red wire in the relay. It makes me think that there is extra wiring/american ecu matched wiring, that has connected the starter, the ignition, the relay and the ecu all together ....perhaps because that was the way whoever the mechanic who did it was able to get everything to work and jsut left it that way. i really dont know. Im just wondering then WHICH one of these wires would drop fast in position 3 (when the starter is cranking) if those ones are not supposed to, or rather if ANY are supposed to?

As far as 14 goes, i said in the very beginning that there was a clicking noise at the vacuume box and an issue with the #5 vacuune hose solenoid when there was a clicking noise at the relay, even after replacing many relays and prior to the ecu no longer working at all, so i am not surprised that the number 14 has an issue, considerring it says it goes to the bypass (which i had to research what that was, because you did not know or answer what the bypass was for when i asked in the last post, so to the best of what i researched on my own it has to do with the vacuume system??) if so, .... no surprise to me that is out. But the question then is, would that prevent the ECU from having an led light or would that prevent the fuel pump from running?

As far as the 3 grounds that have a .08 reading, numbers 4, 16, 18...say engine ground. what does it mean when there is a reading other than 0? and can you direct me to where the ground would actually be located to clean it/tighten it/ whatever needs to be done to eliminate that issue at least. And can that actually be what is causing the EcU's to not even turn on?

I do see at least that there is a consistency in the voltages throughout all the wiring at the 3 key position being +/-9.5-10 and what the starter is drawing, so that is why im wondering if this extra fuse hanging could be connected to parts that its not supposed to be and how to determine that. i think one thing i realized i can do to determine what that second wire is that is going to the relay, is to remove each of the 7.5 fuses one at a time and then both and see what the voltages are at that double wire spot in the relay and then maybe see what happens at the Ecu harness with each fuse removed separately bu thats a lot of work if it has no purpose so i ahvent done it yet.

I feel like it should say somewhere in this book, which of these A harness wires supplies power to the ecu to turn on the led but i cant seem to figure that out myself and cant find it in the book so far. Do you know which one of these wires should make the light come on?

 

A17 will always have power according to the wiring diagram. The loss of voltage is happening when you crank the engine.

The bypass solenoid deals with controlling air into the engine and nothing to do with the fuel pump not turning on.

The reason your fuel pump isn't turning on is because the ECU is not grounding the grn/blk wire at 6 or 12. I am not sure why the ECU is not working. B13 get 12V from the blu/red wire in the pic on post #74. It may be worthwhile to check.

For the LED light, the PGM-FI section in the manual shows testing for A2 and A4 that is tied to gnd1. The other section is for A16, A18, A15, A13.

The 0.08 reading is essentially zero. You are just reading some inherent resistance when current is flowing through the wire to ground.

I don't know why the fuse installed between the blu/red and blk/wht wire. I think it is the connection from the blk/wht wire from the ignition switch to the blu/red wire to the main relay. I have no idea why the wiring was modified in this way.

 

Do you know how to get the ECU to ground the green/black wire at 6 or 12?
And do you know how to locate ground 1 to make sure it is grounded?
Do you know how to test to make sure the ignition is not bad? (maybe why the fuse has been installed/rewired)

 

GND-1 location says center of engine compartment. Check your shop manual under electrical for wire harness location to see if the location is drawn. My best guess is towards the center of the firewall.

I'm not sure of every input to the ECU to get the fuel pump to initially prime. I know the main relay inputs are at minimum part of the ECU logic, but other items may contribute. I was hoping a glaring electrical issue would pop up when you were testing at ECU connector A.

To rule out an ignition switch problem, you can unplug the connector to the ignition switch. You can try jumping the harness side of the connector according to the continuity test in your shop manual for the ignition switch.

My best guess on why a fuse is in that spot is sometime in your car's history, it had a security system or remote starter that was removed and that was the quick fix to restore the OEM electrical connection.

 

i did the ignition continuity test in the manual but wouldnt you agree that continuity doesnt necessarily mean voltage? So even if theres continuity it doesnt mean its getting/giving the correct voltage. I really frankly dont know.

Yes, its possible that when this car was younger, someone installed an alarm, but ive had it for a year and the guy before me had it for a year and its an old car. Its why i asked if i should put the stereo back in because its the only thing that i havent done to put it back together yet. im just going to do it to see. I mean someone took the time to rewire everything so of course they could have cared about it enough to have an alarm but that was obviously a long time ago. But i dont think that fuse is for an alarm it seems very clearly to me to be tied into this relay and/or the ECU. Because it gets the same voltage as the wire at the relay. Like exactly not a hair difference. And If it was for an alarm and there was no longer an alarm, then where would the voltage go? Its been driving fine for 2 years. Ive put many many thousand miles on this car myself without a problem at that fuse. I guess i just dont understand electricity right.

But this is why I asked about having to bolt down the ECU in order to ground it. Im wondering also, if I may have messed something up when i changed the fuel pump. I tried to look for the fuel pump ground and couldnt find it. Its also been so long, I cant remember if the fuse in the spot thats hanging, was there in the beginning or if i put it in there thinking why was it empty, or if it was blown when i found it and i replaced it. I still dont understand why its only getting 9volts. everywhere ive read on-line if it goes below 10volts then its not enough voltage. But not enough for what. I was hoping to at least get an LeD to light up on this thing so i could troubleshoot what the initial problem was to begin with. Meaning why did it go into limp mode in the beginning and then i was able to take it on a very long drive before now not working. The rest of the car is perfect. It was perfect on the long drive.

Now I have no job. I do not know anymore what i am going to do, becuase i know that nobody is going to buy this car if it doesnt run. And i will have to move soon because i cant live here anymore without a car and a job. I guess it will have to be hauled to a junk yard. I really dont know how to do this electrical stuff. The book does not explain what to look for for a ground. it just says it goes to one. I dont even know what the ground would look like. If it is just a wire attached to a bolt, there are those around but what do i do with them to fix them?

 

The stereo shouldn't affect the ECU. It won't hurt to install the original stereo, but likely won't fix your problem.

What I suggested for the ignition switch is different than the continuity test with your volt meter. I'm going to send you a personal message with the test and explain why I don't want to posted to the public.

 

I tried to find the grounds and could not. there are none at the top of the back firewall, under the hood anyway and its in a puddle rn so i couldnt look underneath. I did the test backwards so the second made the dash lights etc come on, including the check engine light. ANd then when doing the first one, I expected the fuel pump to run along solid at the same time as the starter but it didnt even prime, and the check engine light did not go away either. Im reading that the ECu sends ground to the relay to prime the fuel pump, but how? when? under what conditions. I have a new conundrum, According to the manual and everything ive read It takes all those inputs before sending a reading to the outputs...one of the outputs being a message to the relay. So...All the inputs need to be good before i can get fuel. I will say that this appears daunting now, because is there an easy way to cross some of these inputs off the list? I feel like i could maybe go check iginiton 1 considering the previous test was only for ignition 2, But is there a way to check battery voltage at ignition 1 that you could help me with. Again, because the book only shows continuity. And im wondering if i need to run the black to a ground bolt or something. i have no idea how to test voltage from ig 1.
The list of inputs:
Crank Angle, Map, TW, TA, Throttle ANgle, PA, and Oxygen Sensor
The vehicle speed sensor, the starter signal, alternator fr signal, Air conditioning signal, A/T shift position signal, P/S Oil Pressure Signal
Battery Voltage ignition 1

 

IG2 has the connection for IG1, so you don't need to do IG1 by itself.

When you did the test from my PM, were the 2 groups of wires jumped at the same time? Where the w/r, w/bl, and bu/W were connected and the w, bl/y, and y were connected at the same time?