Hi, so i joined this forum today looking for help. I have a 90 accord lx. The problem right now is my car turns but doesnt start. I have checked the basics, plugs and fuel. Now it started with it running fine (radio is loud so i never heard the fuel pump prime). But sometimes it would die, actually its died about 3 times where I would give it gas and the car would die pretty quickly. The battery light and oil light would turn on and the car would just roll and if I gave it gas it would kill it faster. One time this happened, I rolled off the road, put it in park and gave it gas, revved and I went on my way. But now it doesnt work. Checked the plugs and fuel, no problems there. So lately me and my friends have been trying to find out whats wrong. We don't hear the fuel prime but when tested it does squirt gas. Replaced the EFI main relay and nothing. The same problem would occur, it turns and fake starts but dies. When i didnt have as much a problem, it would start, rpms would shoot up but then idle low and then die. So we are stumped, we think it may be another relay but I'm hoping someone here has had the same problem, figured it out and can help me today and save me money because I keep buying new parts and nothing is working. Oh by the way, we have also thought it could possibly be the TPS sensor, and the radiator fan switch? or etc sensor but those are a little farfetched. Thanks for the help!

Note: I dont know too much about cars but I know enough so keep the technicalities simple, haha thanks.

 

Check for error codes. There is a sticky posted called common DIY threads at the top of this forum. I put a link showing how to check for engine codes and transmission codes.

 

Unfortunately there is no check engine light, wasn't when the car was running and none now that it doesn't run. When the ignition is on "on" the check engine does turn on but turns off pretty rapidly. The confusing thing is that however, when we unplugged sensors, the check engine light still didn't come on.

 

I would still start by checking the codes. The 90 accord has an led on the ECU where you can count flashes. I also think the 90 ECU is under the driver's seat. Google 3173_ICCR_E_14JAN03.pdf

That is an overall guide on getting engine codes for a bunch of different cars.

 

After checking the codes, we got a 12 (2 shorts and one long blink) and that is the EGR. Have no idea about that. And we also think we got a 42 but there is no code for that, so we jumped to 43 which has to do with fuel which this whole time we have been thinking. By the way, whats the difference between the main relay and the efi relay? I replaced the EFI today, $60 and no difference but I read that they are some main relays? I can't find them. One was pictured by the interior fuse box but I don't see it.

 

The main fuel relay is above the cruise control unit way up in the dash. Before attempting to replace, turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds while the check engine light turns on for the bulb check. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat so listen carefully.

I would also pull of the distributor cap and distributor rotor and inspect the contacts inside the cap. The cap and rotor are maintenance items, so you may need to replace.

As for the codes, recheck, because a code 12 should start with a long blink, then two quick blinks.

 

Sounds like the same issues I had just before my Ignition Switch went. Ever replace that?

 

Two short and one long, repeated...I'd call that a 2 and a 10......

How did you test the ignition system (spark)?

Does the car seem to start but die as soon as you "release" the key from start to run?

 

Yeah we dont hear any whirring noise from the efi but we also checked the solderings inside and didnt see any cracks or really dirty jobs. We have also checked the distributor and they are fine.

As for which way the blinking was, I'm sure exactly, could've been long blink then short or the other way around.

I highly doubt its my ignition switch since the car cranks fine.

We tested the spark by pulling the spark plug wire out and getting that spark with a piece of metal from the car.

Do you mean where I would normally release the key if the car was working properly? If so, then yes, that is where will the car dies.

 

So it starts but as soon as you relase to "normal run position" it dies....key switch, elec part. Let me dig up the 4th gen wire diagrams, unless you already have it.