I drained the transmission fluid and replaced it with castrol import fluid.
My problem is when I put the shifter in drive the engine dies. It does this in all gears.
Please help.
Thanks

 

Check for trans codes by shorting service check connector (blue 2-wires org/red & grn/wht under glove box) and counting flashes of D4 or S light (Ex). Long flash =10 and short flashes =1.

Torque converter lockup could cause this problem. Code 1 would be likely.

Does engine idle OK (700-800 rpm) w/ trans in P or N? Note, first mark above zero on rpm dial is 500 rpm.

good luck

 

.................................................. ...........................
Thanks for info...
Yes engine idles in P and N.
Engines dies instantly as I put in gear.

Would the Torque converter lockup be a bad solenoid?
Thanks for a reply.

 

I'll assume the issue was not there before the fluid change?

Can you hold the rpm's up a bit as shift to R or D and keep it running?

 

It is possible that LU solenoid is the problem, however a code 1 would be set. Is D4 or S light flashing?

good luck

 

No .. I tried that in 1st gear and it lunged forward and engine died.

 

I jacked up the car and put it on blocks.
Shifted to N and wheels start turning slow at idle.
Put the brake on and it clatters.
I shut it off and restart in N and the noise stops but wheels start turning slow.
I put it in D or R and rev it up, then step on the brake and engine dies.
Best I can do to give you what it's doing.

 

Here's a long shot, but yrs ago I had a similar stall on initial shift after start-up - on a motorcycle (MC) when I had changed the oil to thicker oil (20W-50).

MC would work (shift into 1st without dying) if I let it warm up for many many minutes, which didn't fit my early morning commute schedule. So I found a work around draining and refilling oil with home made blend of 10W40 and 20W50 to make oil 'thinner.'

So suggest your let your car idle for an hour or more to let the tranny gain a little heat through the long engine:tranny coupling and see if it works better. [BTW, EPA conducted tests on 1974 model cars (with inefficient carbs no less!) and found that they consumed 0.5 gallons per hour at idle for 2 - 2.7 liter engines.] So this will be a cheap $3 test to suggest whether your new non-Honda fluid addition is too thick / or incompatible for your auto tranny.



Generally in life, if you change something and get an immediate problem, just undo the change.
Not just in cars.
Best.

 

Thanks for your info and I will try the warm up.

 

Look forward to your test and see if the long shot works.
I edited some info since your post...