I have a 90 Accord. Last summer the problems started that I would drive it and if I shut off for even a min it wouldnt start. The problem went away until this past winter when it came back twice as bad taking longer for it to start, Acting up more frequently. Finally I was able to diagnose what was wrong. I changed the main fuel pump relay and the problem went away. After not running the car for a week I took it. 5 hours later tried to start it, it took 30 mins of cranking before it started. Had to stop and left car running, when I went back out she was dead and now wont start.
It has spark tested with a tester.
Has fuel pressure 38psi with key on. Waiting to get a hand on checking fuel pump. However if it has pressure with key on shouldnt the pump be good?
Cranks but no start.
It has a brand new battery, Just did a tune up not long ago. Has half tank of gas.
The only thing I have found so far is when I turn the key on there is a constant clicking noise next to the battery. The "air intake control solenoid" everyone I talk to says this shouldnt be the problem, that all it does is open a flap when you step on the gas to give it more air.
Was told to check the crank sensor and the ignitor but I have spark so shouldnt they be good.??
Also told to check the ECU. There was no check engine light on but it does come on for a second or 2 with key turned on. *Just came in from playing with it and noticed that the check engine light stayed on the whole time I had key turned on so I will be checking the code.
I am at a loss right now and need help pointing me in the right direction.
THANK YOU ALL FOR ANY HELP I CAN GET.!!!!!!
My bad, just figure it would be a little easier as were I put it seemed to maybe have the same problem. I also tried to clean post up a bit, was giving info about what was going on Again I appreciate any and all help. diagnostics can be a weak spot for me

 

I moved your post. It's tough enough to answer questions about one problem w/o mixing in another similar problem.

Next, leave out details that are not relevant and focus laser-like on what happened.

After tediously parsing your problem, I have the following suggestion. Every no start solution begins w/ understanding whether lack of fuel or spark is the root cause. Please try the following. (notice how breaking things into logical paragraphs makes for an easier read!)

Turn keyswitch to On and listen carefully. You should hear a couple of clicks from under the dash, and fuel pump in fuel tank buzz for 2-3 secs and go off. Check Engine Light should go off w/ fuel pump.

Report back what you hear. Someone will help.

good luck

 

I have the same problem. If you get yours running, pass on the solution. Mines driving me nuts. Thanks for the post

 

Well you said the check lite stood on didnt turn off? That means it has a code for you,get the code "very important" once you have the code it will lead you in what you should do,so let us know what the code # is and we will see what we can help you with

 

Will do @dwagoner, I originally posted mine under your thread only because they seem to have maybe the same issues. Wasnt trying to be a thread thief. Headed out in a few to check that light.
K so last night when I was playing around key on the light stayed on. Today key on light stayed on for a little bit maybe 20-30 seconds and went out.
I tried to pull up the code using a paperclip but the thing has male connectors. I would get a pause and one flash then a long pause and then the light would stay on. Is it trying to tell me the ECU is no good.??? or is that a 10 being Intake air temp sensor.?

 

If you're trying to install a jumper on a male end connector, you have the wrong connector, not the Service Check Connector. It is a blue 2-wire female connector under the glove box or kick panel on pax side. A bent paper clip makes an excellent jumper.

It can be tricky to confirm fuel delivery. Suggest listening each time you try to start for Main Fuel Relay clicks under dash on driver's side and fuel pump buzz from trunk. If these occur when no-start condition is present, then fuel delivery is not the problem.

It could be an ECU problem. This has become a more frequenty problem on aging Accords from the 90's.

good luck

 

No problem. If we put our heads together, maybe we can fix this thing. I stopped working on mine for awhile. Driving my other accord for awhile. Kept in touch.

 

As for the ECU connector, thats what the internet & book says when I was first looking for the location of the port. Every other car Ive ever checked is female. I have pulled the passenger side apart looking for a 2 wire female port. Every other wire I have seen is connected to something. The connecter that I am looking at has a blue case with two wires with two male small prongs inside. I will get back in there and look again, it wouldnt surprise me if they dont exist because some former owner saying oh I dont need these. Hopefully somehow I just didnt see it and it is there.
Will be pulling the main fuel pump relay later today and test even tho its new I want to rule everything out. Checking timing making sure everything to do with the distributor is good and a list of other things.
Will be back with what I find later today/ night.

 

On some cars the connector is stored in a connecting hanger that is a dummy connector.

regards

 

Never found any other connecter. I need to post a photo of the one I am looking at but everything I read says it doesnt exist.
Here is another one. Took the top timing cover off but not the bottom. #1 cyl is at top, used a screwdriver and watched as it came up. The cam shaft timing mark is off about tooth or two. the "top" (timing mark is tilted a little towards the drivers compartment) when I look at the timing mark thru the trany bellhousing the mark is between 1/8 of an inch off (closer to the front of the car) Moving the flywheel clock wise puts the mark forward and the cam shaft moves counter making the mark before. Am I looking at doing a timing belt/ water pump job? Or can I not check the marks that way and have to pull it all apart?
*forgot, the distributor rotor is at the #1 cyl wire. Just played with it a little more. The line in the bell housing is just a touch past(more like a 1/16 of in inch). The Cam is off a tooth off before lining up. That shouldnt keep her from starting right?