From your description, this engine is in pretty bad shape along with the transmission.

If the compression tests come back low, your friend may want to buy an engine and transmission from a junk yard. A rebuild will be much more expensive.

As for removing the balance shaft, I have no clue how or why you would want to. I keep my car stock, so I don't run into headaches modifying them.

The timing is computer controlled, so I don't know what you could do adjust the timing. There is an EX engine that has vtec (same block as the LX/DX, but different cylinder head), where you would get ~15 more HP. The cam timing is adjusted in the higher rpm with vtec engines. You would need an EX ECU and some wiring modifications to do that.

If I wanted to just go out and buy a new engine i would have already, and the same with a tranny. i am doing this for a learning experience. and yes this car is a piece. i have told everyone this since the day i bought it. and as a matter of fact if you look back at, to at least one of my posts you would have read this somewhere. i am new to engines but have come along way knowledge wise. not saying that i know everything about them, but i just dont want to hear smart*** comments about flux compasitors and blinker fluid bkuz you think i have no clue what im talking about. I do have an idea, just looking for help as "03 Cav" has heen saying. im thinking that it would be best for me to take out the whole engine and replace all of the gaskests and gromets seals and bolts but i have minimum time to do so having a full time job and whatnot. by the time i get off work its dark and i have no portable lights to use. its it really is a weekend job,that is if it isnt raining, or freezing cold. rather than just a freetime day and night job. im already risking working on the car since i dont have the necessiary tools to do it. pretty much what im working with is a ratchet and socket set. so those who want to criticise me you can just suck on my right testicle.

Although i greatly appreciate those who are helping me out and giving me advice. im thankful for your patience. I have checked my main realay and it is still in working condition so if there are any other ideas please let me know...

i had like 6 accord 90-93 and that hapend to me alot and it was the mfi relay its located undere the teh steering wheel the cover its gray and the bottom is brow thats all it is im sure because it happent to me 2 but i learn the hard way on my car ..i replaced alot of parts but the only thing that work it was the relay that relay fits from a 90 all the way to 97 accord

i have actually taken the main relay off of my car and had it tested to see if it was still good, and so be it... it was. so now im leaning towards the fuel pump... i havent had the chance to test it yet bkiz my battery has become dead due to either a short or a ground somewhere in the harness... im stuck in other words... ill have to wait until i can get a friend to help me jump my vehicle...

ok so i havent been active for awhile now, and ive noticed that my friend has been asking you all questions and giving information about what is wrong. i appreciate the help, for those who have helped...
a compression test will be the next thing that i will do to my car thank you PA. i havent had much time nor funds to do much to my vehic lately so i kinda left it where it lay. although i havent given up yet and my will isnt broken, i simply dont have much time except for the weekends, that is if it isnt cold or rainy.

My vote is fuel pump. I purchased a main relay for my 92 Accord when people told me that was my problem. NOT The car was sold years later, with an extra main relay in the trunk. I have posted a link below, that you may want to save. It has a lot of information on 4th gen (90-93) Accords. Good luck with the car. A very smart guy once told me "Diagnose before changing parts" The link below may help you figure it out.
http://www.techautorepairs.com/

i appreciate it nighthawk. i will check my fuel pump once i can actually get my battery charged. thanks for the help bro

The thing is to CHECK the fuel pump, before just buying one.

Get in the habit of turning the key ON but not immediately to START. Listen for the pump to run for 2 seconds then quit. It's not very loud, so you'll want all the ventilation & radio & other noisemakers turned off. If it fails to start even when the pump runs, then you know to look elsewhere entirely.

for future refrences, if it isnt the fuel pumpor the main relay what else could it be, besides spark?

You need a properly timed engine, along with fuel & spark. I always gotta read back through this mega-thread to remind me what's already been checked.

Would you recognize the abnormal cranking sound of a broken timing belt? (Can we rule out that kind of thing entirely?) Got good compression (no holes in the pistons)?

Got spark? (How did you check?)
Got proper fuel pressure at the rail? (How do you know?)

If the pump doesn't run, you gotta check if the wiring is bad between the main relay to the pump.

If the pump DOES run, then it might still be a couple things in the fuel system:
- fuel isn't getting to the rail because kinked or crushed fuel pipe
- injectors aren't firing because they're broken
- injectors aren't firing because their wiring is messed up

If spark is what's missing, then we gotta systematically check stuff to rule it out.
- distributor is actually turning with the engine?
- ECU giving a proper signal to the ignitor?
- ignitor OK? giving proper signal to fire the coil?
- coil OK?
- distributor rotor OK? Cap & plug wires?

We all have a tendency to jump right to the common things that always seem to fail. When that's not it, we should go back to a systematic check of everything, take nothing for granted. Like maybe take this list & tell us what you have already checked out.