91 accord cooling system bleeding
#1
03-14-2011, 03:33 PM
91 accord cooling system bleeding
On a 91 accord EX 4 cyl. How important is it to wait for the cooling fan to come on when you are bleeding the cooling system?
#2
03-14-2011, 04:49 PM
Not real important. You want the thermostat to open, which you can see when coolant flows through the radiator. Open the radiator cap as you warm it up you'll see it start flowing.
If you don't get all the bubbles out, you can try again. That's not cool if you're at a shop working on a customer's car because they'll have to come back & they won't be happy. Working on your own car you can tolerate stuff like that.
When it cools off, squeeze the radiator hoses. If there's any air remaining, you'll hear sloshing sounds. You should only hear the little rattle-pin in the thermostat.
If you don't get all the bubbles out, you can try again. That's not cool if you're at a shop working on a customer's car because they'll have to come back & they won't be happy. Working on your own car you can tolerate stuff like that.
When it cools off, squeeze the radiator hoses. If there's any air remaining, you'll hear sloshing sounds. You should only hear the little rattle-pin in the thermostat.
#4
03-15-2011, 03:06 AM
there is a bleeding valve (but not sure if 5th gen has one).
you just need to open that valve then pour the coolant into your radiator, air will then exit through the valve, close it after you see coolant came out. start the engine with radiator cap remove so you can tap it off as needed.
you just need to open that valve then pour the coolant into your radiator, air will then exit through the valve, close it after you see coolant came out. start the engine with radiator cap remove so you can tap it off as needed.
#5
03-15-2011, 10:26 AM
PA Honda, in answer to your question:
1) Turned the temp. control **** all the way to hot, fan switch to off
2) Opened the bleed valve
3) Poured 50/50 antifreeze in the radiator until I got a steady stream
from the bleed valve then closed it
4) Topped off the reservoir
5) Topped off the radiator
6) Started the car and let it run, waiting for the fan to come on but it
never did because it took too long, so i just topped it off again and
closed everything up. I have verified the fan to work.
Also, I don't know if t matters, but I was on mabye a 25 degree incline when I did this.
But please, let me give you a little background if I may:
I replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump (when the timing belt broke), coolant temp. sensor and it still runs hot. Now it will idle for a long time without running hot but when I start driving the only way to keep it from running hot is to turn the heat on and it gets progressively worse to the point where I have to keep the heat on and push in the A/C **** so that both fans run (at stoplight temp goes up, start driving again, temp goes down). Also, when I activate the defroster, my windows fog up like crazy to the point where I'm better off without it and I've noticed my passenger footwell was soaked at times so I may have some heater core issues. I'm getting heat from it though...boy am i getting heat! So I would think the thermostat is installed properly. But today I topped off the radiator and idled the car for at least 15 minutes and my upper radiator was hot but my lower radiator hose leading to the thermostat was cold and my fan never came on. My fan may work but it seems like it takes it a while to get the message to turn on. Now I'm not sure if the heater core issue is causing my car to overheat or a tricky thermostat or perhaps something that happened when the timing belt broke. It still takes off though like a bat out of @#$% but has a skip. Any ideas?
1) Turned the temp. control **** all the way to hot, fan switch to off
2) Opened the bleed valve
3) Poured 50/50 antifreeze in the radiator until I got a steady stream
from the bleed valve then closed it
4) Topped off the reservoir
5) Topped off the radiator
6) Started the car and let it run, waiting for the fan to come on but it
never did because it took too long, so i just topped it off again and
closed everything up. I have verified the fan to work.
Also, I don't know if t matters, but I was on mabye a 25 degree incline when I did this.
But please, let me give you a little background if I may:
I replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump (when the timing belt broke), coolant temp. sensor and it still runs hot. Now it will idle for a long time without running hot but when I start driving the only way to keep it from running hot is to turn the heat on and it gets progressively worse to the point where I have to keep the heat on and push in the A/C **** so that both fans run (at stoplight temp goes up, start driving again, temp goes down). Also, when I activate the defroster, my windows fog up like crazy to the point where I'm better off without it and I've noticed my passenger footwell was soaked at times so I may have some heater core issues. I'm getting heat from it though...boy am i getting heat! So I would think the thermostat is installed properly. But today I topped off the radiator and idled the car for at least 15 minutes and my upper radiator was hot but my lower radiator hose leading to the thermostat was cold and my fan never came on. My fan may work but it seems like it takes it a while to get the message to turn on. Now I'm not sure if the heater core issue is causing my car to overheat or a tricky thermostat or perhaps something that happened when the timing belt broke. It still takes off though like a bat out of @#$% but has a skip. Any ideas?
#6
03-15-2011, 11:55 AM
When the timing belt broke, did you have the cylinder head milled? new head gasket? Valve train inspected?
If you have to keep adding coolant, you have a leak somewhere. Some parts stores rent the coolant pressure testers. Your car should hold about 15 psi for 30 minutes.
Was the thermostat one from a honda dealership?
If you have to keep adding coolant, you have a leak somewhere. Some parts stores rent the coolant pressure testers. Your car should hold about 15 psi for 30 minutes.
Was the thermostat one from a honda dealership?
#8
03-15-2011, 03:46 PM
You have a lot of stuff going on at once here.
I would replace the thermostat with one from the Honda dealership. That should eliminate the temperature difference in the hoses.
If the timing belt broke while the engine was running, chances are high that you had damage to the valves. Are the valve clearances correct? I would do a compression test on each cylinder.
If the passenger side of the car is soaked, then it is either water or coolant. Do you have to add coolant?
I would replace the thermostat with one from the Honda dealership. That should eliminate the temperature difference in the hoses.
If the timing belt broke while the engine was running, chances are high that you had damage to the valves. Are the valve clearances correct? I would do a compression test on each cylinder.
If the passenger side of the car is soaked, then it is either water or coolant. Do you have to add coolant?
#9
03-15-2011, 06:27 PM
I agree regarding the thermostat; I'll pick one up tomorrow. As for the valve clearances, I do'nt know for sure if they are correct but I have been thinking seriously about adjusting them to get rid of the ticking, but the car still takes off like a rocket so that's why I really havent giving bent valves too much thought. Also, I have not performed a compression test yet but I'll make sure to do that before and after the valve adjustment. Lastly, I do have to keep adding coolant.
#10
04-04-2011, 02:56 PM
Ok, sorry it took so long to get back to you guys; I wanted to be really sure this car wasn't going to suprise me and overheat again. It's been about 2 weeks now after installing the HONDA thermostat and it hasn't run hot since. I also found the source of my leak-it was one of the coolant hoses in the back of the engine. The car also seems to run a little better as well. As for the old thermostat, I noticed when I was removing it that it WAS INSTALLED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION, however, the jiggle pin was not in the right position. Would that have affected the proper operation of the thermostat?