I have a 91 accord when vehicle hits running temp it stalls out have to wait till car cools completely to restart stalls even when idling new radiator new distributor head gasket replaced fuel filter replaced plugs and plug wires replaced any suggestions just purchased new temp sensors and fpr

 

That is a lot of parts you replaced. Hopefully you were fixing other known issues.

My advice is to stop throwing parts at the car until you diagnose the problem.

We need more information. Did the stalling problem happen after one of these fixes?

Why did you replace the head gasket? That is a pretty big job.

Have you checked for engine codes?

 

Had a coolant hose rupture car ran hot and cut off this is when the problem started I replaced majority of the coolant system radiator and hoses after the issues started thinking there may be a coolant leak still head gasket was replaced as well after finding a leak thought it may be the issue but didn't resolve issue followed thread links in similar issues replaced or checked for faulty parts replaced entire distributor noticed it was a junk yard part plugs and plug wires replaced every 3k miles in tune ups I take extra care in replacement of parts due to the cars age could my ecu be the issue also mfr been replaced

 

I mean no harm but I can't focus with the run on sentence. Please break this down with clarity for us, or at least me. Thanks. We look forward to helping you solve the issue.

 

Ok driving to work one day car overheated. Got it into parking lot car completely shut off in safe mode. Repaired busted hose and added coolant drove car home. Continued to drive the car Dailey and it started shutting off while driving. Let it sit and cool would fire right up get it back home distances before it would shut off become shorter and shorter. Now I can crank car up let it sit till it hits running temp and it will shut off and not fire up again for several hours.

Car has full exhaust factory 4 2 1 header test pipe and cat back as well as short ram intake.

Replaced parts are as listed
Radiator
Coolant hoses
Distributor - had junkyard part bought brand new
Plugs
Plug wires - had 10 mm wires but melted shields when overheated
Ignition wires
Main fuel relay
Fuel filter
Head gasket - noticed leak near exhaust manifold

I have new temp sensor ect head sensor and ect block sensor as well as fuel pressure regulator to install. Although I'm not sure on location of block ect sensor. These are my next to replace parts. I wish to get the car going with existing motor since it runs smooth no knocks or ticks. If not then I will purchase a h22a jdm for swap but prefer to not spend 1200 when the existing engine is solid.

 

Temps sensors should located at: 1- lower radiator hose near the thermostat, 2- upper radiator hose in bell housing connection at the head, and 3- under the distributor. As far as it stalling at normal operating temperature the potential "normal" causes in order of most likely are fuel pressure regulator, EGR and IACV, all of which can be tested and/or cleaned prior to throwing more parts at it.

 

Furthermore since you had the head gasket replaced I would inspect the vacuum lines for proper routing, cracks, kinks or simply unplugged. You should have a routing diagram sticker on the bottom of the hood.

 

No leaks all plugs plugged and hoses reattached. Egr tested and cleaned today will try fpr next. Any other ideas if parts are bad even if repairable I'm replacing with new.

 

Thank you for your timely responses and assistance with the problem I hope to get it resolved as soon as possible

 

When you replaced the head gasket, did you have the cylinder head milled, so it is perfectly flat? Just wanted to make sure you didn't replace mean the intake manifold gasket.

I highly suggest doing diagnostics before replacing any more parts.

#1 - Check for engine codes. See common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help forum.

#2 - Check for spark at the spark plugs when the engine is not starting. You can do this with a spark tester, an old spark plug, or a timing light. If you don't know how to do this, we can provide more information.

#3 - When the car is not starting, turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on for about two seconds, the fuel pump should turn on as well for two seconds. Listen carefully for the sound of the fuel pump. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat.

#4 - Check the vacuum hose that connects to the EGR valve and make sure that you have the EGR vacuum hose connected properly.

#5 - What are the wire colors going to the map sensor? What are the wire colors going to the throttle position sensor? Both sensors have three wires going to them.