But this Accord is kikn my *BUTT**91 4 door.Im normally able to diagnose an issue within a day or two but this time Im at my witts end.If anyone has encountered this issue please share your solution!The car has had an idle issue for quite a while,revs up an down at idle.I swapped out the throttle body and the idle control solenoid thinking it was the TPS or ICS,neither of these made any difference.SO I gave up and drove it this way for quite some time without any other issues.The other day I parked it and tried to start it back up 2 min later and it turned over but sounded like there was no spark,popped the hood and looked for something unplugged and found nothing.Got back in and fired it up...Blew it off until the next day when it did it again,the car starts and runs fine at a cold start,kill it and start it a few times and the check engine light will come on and it wont start,let it sit for a few min and it fires right up....replaced the coil,cap,rotor,checked all electrical connections,vacuum hoses with no difference.Im thinking ignition control module or fuel pump,am I even close?Any help appreciated!!!:eyecraz:

 

ok you said the check engine light came on. have you tried checking for codes? that should be the first place to start. even if the light isn't on anymore that code is still stored in the computer.

the following link tells you how to check for codes:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/
the following link gives you a list of codes:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...u-codes-33940/

please check the CEL code(s) and let us know what they are. this will help us to better diagnose your problem since we can't look at the car ourselves.

 

Good search on those link ups from the HAF..keep up the good work here in the forums..

WheelBrokerAng

 

If Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, get these codes (Check DIY forum for OBD1 procedure) and post them.

First step w/ no-start is to understand whether fuel or ignition is source of the problem, no matter what you might think is the problem.

These checks must be done when No-start condition exists. It will do no good to check when car is starting.

1) Turn keyswitch to On. Does the CEL, Alt, and Oil light come on immediately. CEL should go off after 2-3 secs.

2) When keyswitch is turned Off to On, you should also hear a soft click from under the dash and fuel pump in fuel tank come on and run for 2-3 secs. Fuel pump will stop and CEL will go off at same time.

If above 2) checks show all lights are coming on correctly, and you hear the fuel pump run/cut-off, then fuel delivery is likely and ignition fault is likely.

If you're missing the Alt, Oil, and CEL coming on, then ignition switch assembly is likely faulty. Easy diy replacement. See DIY forum.

If ignition is indicated, suggest going to techautorepairs.com/ignition.html for guidance on diagnosing where igntion is failing.

good luck

 

Other than the up and down idle issue, this sounds alot like the problem I had with my '92.
It turned out my main relay was the culprit. I replaced it, now all is good.

Good luck

 

And I would treat these as different issues- idle vs no start. Of course we have to get the car running before getting back to the idle.

 

Main relay seems to have been the culprit,could they find a worse place to mount it?!?!!?Thanx a bunch guys Ill know in the next couple days if it acts up again or not..
OK does anyone have another genius suggestion for my idle issue?It revs high at cold start for 10-15 sec then starts bouncing from 1400-2400 rpms.As stated before I tried swapping out the idle control solenoid with the 2 wire plug and 2 coolant lines running through it.It has been doing this for quite a while,it used to do it till it warmed up then stop,now it never stops.Temp sensor?Gauge and fan work fine.Thermostat?Runs at the right temp.IDK! BTW had the ignition module tested 3x,its good.

 

A few things, might be repeats of what you have done but have to be sure.

TB-Clean the heck out of it. Both sides of the butterfly and give the "ports" a good spray.

FITV-check the DIY Common Threads for details. Basic, remove the cover, screw it down and then properly adjust.

IAC-Know you replaced it but it is a common issue so you can't be sure the "new/used" one was any better-so inspect/clean it.

Coolant level? Make sure it is full and there is no trapped air-bleed valve, with the proper procedure.

Air boost valve on the tb is next.

 

FITV?

 

Fast idle thermo valve. It is pretty easy to access on your engine. It is #8 in the pic below. Remove the two bolts on the cap and screw the assembly in until it is snug. You don't have to over tighten.