Thanks PAhonda. That helps. It was the check engine light that flashed 6 short flashes when I jumped the connector that day and the S light was on when driving, not flashing. The S light sometime comes on with this problem the car is having right now but not always. Yesterday while driving around, when I pulled into a parking spot, I'd pop the hood to look at the fan. It wasn't running any of the three times.

 

Thanks again everyone. It's Saturday repair day.

I pulled thermoswitch A again and tested it in a pot of water that I brought to boiling. My multimeter read 0.L (open loop or no continuity I just learned) until about 195 degrees F, then it read 2.3 - 3.1 until boiling then it showed 0.L. As it cooled it showed the same until about 195. The interesting thing is I bought a replacement switch from Autozone that I'm not 100% sure is thermoswitch A and I tested that in a second reheating of my pot of water. Both the old and new thermoswitches showed 0.L until boiling. The old then showed 0.0 at boiling and new continued to show 0.L.
Provided I'm doing the test correctly, what do these readings indicate?
Thanks in advance

 

A code 6 from the check engine light is for the engine coolant temperature sensor. That is bolted to the cylinder head under the distributor and has two wires going to it.

I am not sure what is going on with your test of the temperature switch. You should switch the meter to ohms (upsidedown horseshoe). An open circuit will read the same as holding the meter leads and not touching anything. A closed circuit will read the same as touching the volt meter leads together.

 

Thanks PAhonda. I replaced the temp sensor (thermistor) under the distributor when that happened. No change. I'm not getting codes when I jump the test circuit right now.

Re the multitester, I did have the setting to ohms (upsidedown horseshoe). The readings I laid out were accurate. Should an operating thermoswitch ever show open loop when tested? When shop manual circuit diagram says "coolant temperature switch A (on above 194 degrees F)", what reading should the multitester show at that point and should it change at boiling? I appreciate your all's ongoing help.

 

Ok - I'm not into all of the science but here is a theory.

Thermo A (fan switch) would be open until ~194. Then it closes. I think what is happening when the water begins to boil is that the "air" in the bubbles is actually alowing the switch to cool down below ~194.......I think I just used up my "wild a@* idea" of the day

 

HA, good one. But to answer my noob question: if thermo A is open until 194, what should the multitester read until that point? Then what should it read above 194, then what should it read at boiling?

 

below ~195 - open - no continuity

above ~195 - closed - continuity

 

Great, thanks poorman212

 

Okay, so I've been living with limp mode for a few months now. (actually it's the car that's been in limp mode) It's not getting better.

Here's what I've done to address the problem in list form:
-Changed tranny fluid with Honda ATZ-F1 fluid.
-Installed new Honda thermostat (part #19301-PAA-306)
-Installed new thermoswitch A, the one on the t-stat housing. (Duralast part #5W5476)
-Installed new thermoswitch, the one under the distributor and towards the firewall, (Duralast part #SU4006)
-Both fans come on with ignition on and AC on.
-Radiator fan doesn't run (when I'm looking) when the car is running but the car has not been overheating. Fan has been observed from cold start to engine warmed up and at stops while driving. I never see it run but no overheating.
-When warmed engine is turned off, Radiator fan doesn't always run. Sometimes it does. Sometimes it goes like it's got an intermittent signal. Then it's accompanied by clicking in the fan relay in the fuse box
-tested fan relay for continuity: O.L on the copper prongs. 0.00 on the brass prongs
-tested thermoswitch a in boiling water and it stayed O.L to boiling but replacement switch hasn't helped (I'm wondering if I did it wrong)

We're onto to page two but I'm asking you all again if you've got any suggestions. Thanks for the input

 

Oh, and just re-reading your replies. I just jumped the lead to thermoswitch A on the t-stat housing with the ignition on. The radiator fan came on.