Wife's Accord has had sparatic issues of starting. Briefly will crank and no start. After a few attempts it would start (all year). Recently happened a couple times. Now to the point that will crank start then stop.

After replacing the fuel filter it started. Tried a few times then it wouldn't. Couple attempts then start a few times then not. Next morning started then wouldn't start at school. Had towed later that night and tow driver tried it again and it started and drove home.

Bell Tire did diagnostic and claimed oil on the plugs, need new valve cover gasket and plugs. Cleaned them and worked till we went to go home. Battery went dead (think lights left on). Mechanic came out and gave instructions believing that fuel running back to tank so wait before starting. Not true as I had pressure and gas to release on filter change after sitting a day.

Seeing a few ideas, not sure where to go first. Alternator and battery tested and good. Good spark. Going to check the codes today (its at the church thinking it would be a good test and there it sets) see it that leads to something (Thanks Eric!).

Any other thoughts to go with, I'll check back later. Glad you folks are here to help us again!
Richard
javelinman74@hotmail.com

 

Turn the key to on, listen for the fuel pump to prime (very faint noise so turn everything off - blower, radio, door close-chime, ect). You should hear it prime and then stop, at the same time the CEL will go off.

When it won't start, be sure you have 12v to the BLK/YEL wire going to the dist.

If the tune up items are due (cap, rotor, plugs) then they should be done just to rule them out.

 

Fuel pump working.
Put cap and rotor on tonight.

Looked EVERYWHERE in the car and online to find the code sequence light or plug to jump, and there is none. Under both driver and passenger side, under the seats, behind the ash tray, etc. Everywhere someone online said the location possibilities, just no way to get codes on this 91 Accord.

Well, went to start and again, when cranking it runs then stops apparently when the key is released. Went to church to get it and it started and ran over to my friends where we did this work.

Just trying to figure this out on our own, Monday will hit the dealer with questions.
Appreciate it!
Richard

 

Can you start this car, and keep it running by not allowing the key to be fully released? And then, if you let go of the key, the engine dies immediately??

If yes to both questions, it is quite likely you have a defective electrical portion of your ignition switch. Basically a cable that bolts to the ignition switch at one end, and plugs into the fuse box at the other end.

 

Hello,

Spanner light and oil life 15%

I have an Accord 2007 model. Last night, i saw a spanner light showing on my dash board and at the same time it shows oil life 15%. I plan to change the oil tomorrow. could the oil life be responsible for the spanner light too.

 

The spanner light is for the maintenance minder, it's popping up precisely because your oil life is at 15%. You should look at the manual for things like this, it's full of goodies I promise. Go on YouTube to find out how to reset it once you change your oil. Now can we not hijack this thread?

I find it hard to believe it's not there. On mine it's blue, to the passenger side under glove box, plugged in to a socket that seems to be useless. You have to actually pull it out, then jump it. Maybe you missed it? I don't know if it's blue on yours and it might just be hanging there.

I had to deal with a main relay issue causing finicky starting a while back. I always heard the whirr before a successful start so I assume the pump and relay were fine. But when the car was having a string of unsuccessful starts, I thought to listen for the whirr again and sure enough it wasn't there. So try looking for that sound when you run into the actual no starts.

Or maybe you can just pull the main relay and examine it, although to untrained eyes you might not see a broken solder joint.

Like AccordFan said it kind of sounds like ignition switch but I've had main relay issue where it would sort of feel like it's catching on but die as soon as you stop cranking. In that case the ignition switch turned out to be fine, it was the main relay solder joints that were broken and had to be resoldered.

 

Yes, not there...
Friend and myself working on that for hour+ last night with the computer next too us and checking every location and color of the plug described. We both were aware of it as he also has a code reader, also kinda learned that the 91 (in some of the posts) had the LED to check and nothing on the computer under the passenger carpet, nothing on the passenger side under the dash, nor in the side compartment kick panel, nothing under the driver side, passenger seat, driver seat, (noone said that but thought it wouldn't hurt to look there too.

Decided that once figured out, off it goes to the dealer so that someone there can maybe find it. Doesn't make sense to us either.
THANKS
Richard

 

Also,
Found out last night what my wife was talking about when the lights went out and it stalled. Sounded like all the lights went out, when it turned out to be the dash lights. So that explains why I now have no dash lights until I crank it, and only when cranking.

It does seem to start when only the key is on.

Also at one time we went to the dealer and asked about it when it was sparatic in not starting. This car has to have the headlights on to start. Our Jeeps had that but the Honda dealer said that was not original. Checked with the original owners and said it was installed at factory and there is no indication of splices in the wiring, so not real sure about that. However a few on the dash lights are always on, and at times while running down the road the speedometer would drop to zero while driving (kick off the cruise control too). So always worried about something electrical.

Maybe this will help. Will check what you suggested and let you all know.
Sure is good to have you all here!
Blessings
Richard

 

Please test for 12v on the BLK/YEL wire at the dist when key is "on"/pos II........this is really sounding like a bad ign switch.

The plug for getting codes is a two pin connector under/behind the glove box. On this gen you do not need a "reader".....just a paper clip to jump the two terminals together, tuen the key to on and watch and count any blinks from the CEL and or the D4.