My mother's 1991 Acoord SE has abattery that dies after several days of not being driven. According to the service manager at Honda dealer "that's just what soem older Hondas do" - I'm not buying it. The car should not have a battery die out after sitting for several days.

Here are the details:

1. Battery has been loaded checked and tests good.
2. Alternator is good
3. Car runs fine.
4. Checked fuse box under hood- circuit named "interior lights" with a 15 Amp fuse was tested using milliammeter. My multimeter only goes to 400mA but the ammeter read OL (overload) so my best guess is that it drawing beeter than .40 Amps which I consider significant.
5. Lights in trunk, dome, glove box where checked and found to be off when respective doors switches where shut.
6. I did add an aftermarket radio this year, but it is off when car is shut off. (Haven't checked to see if there is an amp draw across the radio when car is off yet).

Any help/insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

I would try to isolate the circuit drawing the amps by pulling fuses until draw is eliminated.

Dimmer circuits are known problem areas. Aftermarket security system?

Many possibilities. You need to narrow the possibilities to a single circuit and then start unplugging components on that circuit to find the culprit.

good luck

 

Thanks TexasHonda for help. Local Honda dealer has traced the problem to the automatic seat belt controller. A new controller installed over $900, ouch. They also say that the controller has to be programmed by the dealer. Sound right? If not, I think I'll go look for a used one cheap.

Thanks again

 

I doubt controller needs to be programmed, but SRS systems are somewhat a black box.

Are these the automatic belts that close when car door closes? I thought those had a lifetime warranty due to problems w/ them. Worth a try.

good luck

 

I know this is an old post. But my 91 had a relay in the window circuit that stayed on for 3 minutes after ign. was turned off so the windows could be rolled up as you were leaving the car. The relay was stuck on which drained the battery.

 

When the ignition switch is in run and for several minutes after it is switched to off the Integrated Control Unit provides voltage to the coil in the power window relay. The contacts of the power window relay close and voltage is applied to the driver’s power window switch and all the individual window switches.

The power window key on timer circuit is part of the Integrated Control Unit. If power is constantly being provided then it can either be a faulty Integrated Control Unit or the power window relay (which is normally open) is shorted closed.

The Integrated Control Unit is attached to the under-dash fuse/relay box. The power window relay is located in the under-hood fuse/relay box.

The power window relay can be tested; but, I believe the cooling fan relay located in the under-hood fuse/relay box is the same type as the power window relay. So, you can swap them to try to rule out the relay.

 

My fault. I used the wrong term. It was integrated control unit that went bad and kept the relay on and hot. I just bypassed it with a straight ign. wire to the relay. Keep it simple.