I would suggest changing the oil and replace the seal on the drain plug with a new Honda one then clean up the motor so you can find what is leaking and how much. Most of time oil leaks are slow but you are going to have to run it to find out.

 

as of now there is no oil registering on the dipstick. i have a gallon of oil but i really want to wait to put it in until is has more promise of starting. i know for a fact that the oil plug is bad, and the oil pan gasket is bad, but not too sure where the rear main seal is located so no telling. i have filled it with oil at least 3 times since ive been working on the car so therefore im not in that mood to waist any more. i tried to replace that seal to the oil pan but i eventually rounded the edges of the exaust pipe bolts so now i can get that off in order to get my oil pan off... it seems to be one problem after another. so the next thing im going to replace is the entire exaust, but im not going to replace it with stock. i figured that i would install an upgraded exaust and headers... so if yall have any opinions of what i should get let me know, im open for suggestions. im trying to recover this piece into a functioning sleeper so im not looking for a load noisy exaust.

 

i also have some UV die that i will pour into the oil once i do get it more promise of a non-leaking engine

 

If it leaks that bad get a bunch of real cheap oil & fill it. There's no way to make much progress until you start it & figure out where it's leaking from.

 

ok will do. thank you for that info. i dont want to ruin my engine in the process so i will take your advise. the last time i refilled it, my oil was gone within 24-48 hours. so yes the leak is that bad. and i just found out where the rear main seal is. also i was wondering if you think that my starting problem could be attributale to my main relay?i found out that it is a fuel problem.

 

The most definitive way to test that the main relay is working is to get a 12V light from radio shack. In the trunk of the car, there is an access panel to the fuel sending unit. Unbolt the panel and there is a 3-pin connector under there. Unplug the connector. Hook one end of the test light to the blk/yel wire and the other end to the ground bolt. Just turn the key to the II position (don't try to start). The light should turn on for ~2 seconds.

The quicker way to do this is to listen for the fuel pump to prime for about two seconds when you turn the key to the II position (don't try to start). It should be a faint buzzing sound coming from the backseat area. You may want to listen at the gas cap (cap removed) and have an assistant turn the key to the II position.

 

Is the main leak near the front of the oil pan where the timing belt cover meets? Oil pan gaskets don't go bad often but they take the blame for other leaks. Is the drain plug stripped? A rear main leak will be where the oil pan meets the transmission.