Hi,

This will be my first transverse-mounted-engine timing belt job. I would appreciate any before-the-fact hints...special tools, parts to remove to improve access, and so forth.

The manual makes the crank bolt and crank pully sound like problems.

I look down "there" and don't see any room at all to work.

Anyway, thanks for any help.

Roy

1991 Accord LX 2-door with the AT

 

Removing the crankbolt will be the hardest part of the job IMO.

Read post from Tony1M. Has lots of pics to describe the procedure.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ead.php?t=3977

 

That is a good write up.

The crank bolts are easy to remove on a manual.

If it is an auto it is a littlemore tricky.

EDIT: NM just read your sig.

 

Some things I think are worth mentioning are:

In the photos that show the orientation of the springs for the tensioner they are not consistent and I would take a photo or make a drawing of them.

The last page from the Tony’s post show an aqua-colored arrow. That is a tab that the tensioner has a slot for. I don’t think it is mention anywhere and TexasHonda made a sticky about it as it is easy to miss installing it correctly.

Amazon has a tool that holds the crank pulley so you can break loose the crank bolt.

I don’t have an answer but I had a tough time getting the lower timing belt cover on no matter the height. I tried jacking it up and lowering.

You may want to replace the crank, cam and balance shaft seals. There is not much room to get to the balance shaft seal. I made a tool out of pvc from Home Depot that used the bolt for the pulley to draw it in. My friend at the Honda dealer said he just uses silicone on the seal and pushes it in with his thumbs. On my 1995 there was a recall on the seal which adds a bracket to prevent the seal from coming out. Your vehicle may require the bracket.

I purchased the tensonor aftermarket and it was the same brand and part number as I took off but a lot cheaper in price.

You should replace the water pump.

 

Got Boost, why would the crank bolt be easier to remove on a manual? The at and mt have the same engine block.

 

I was wondering the same thing...?

Since 91/92 has a big opening in the bellhousing (to shine a timing light on the flywheel) then maybe a crowbar in there can hold the crank?? Maybe THAT's easy on a manual but not an auto?

 

Gee, thanks guys. Just the info I need. I will be sure to change the tensioners, seals, and pump.

When our snow melts, I'll go measure the crank to see if it takes the 50 mm tool. I assume the manual tranny is easier as you can "lock" the motor by keeping the front end on the ground and the tranny in gear.

Maybe this thread should go to the DIY answers section?

 

I wouldn't use the trans to hold the crankshaft - I'd be afraid to break something in the gearbox because the torque is that high.

Lots of people use a big air-impact wrench to remove that bolt. Remove the plastic liner inside the fender for best access.

Actually it's better here in General Tech since it's a couple random questions & answers. Not a comprehensive procedure.

 

PAhonda,

Jim has it bang on.

You can use a prybar and stick it in the teeth of the flywheel. You can then use the prybar and brace it against the bell housing. From there you can use a 1/2 breaker bar 3 or so feet in length with a nice long extension to get to the crank pulley bolt. Once the flywheel is braced the pulley bolt "brakes" loose with little effort.

I would also advise spraying a rust penetrant like WD40 around the pulley bolt before hand to help break any "rust bonds"

Kris is correct, you can also get a crank pulley remover tool. That can be a life and sanity saver on automatics.

Like Kris, I too have trouble with the lower timing cover. My nemisis cover bolt is the top right. (the one on the upper part of the lower timing cover closest to the intake manifold.) For me it is a patience issue getting the wrench in and turning a fraction of a time.

Hope this helps guys.

 

Got boost ,, my man ,,, seems like i keep on disagreeing with you, but that is the worst thing that you can advice members to do,,

Members Please DO NOT try this method ,, the crank bolt is very tight and the chances of snapping off a flywheel tooth are pretty high ,,if that happens than you got to remove the transmission and replace the flywheel........
if you totally cannot loosen the bolt up,,,,,,, i rather see you ,go to a garage pay them 20-30 dollars to loosen the bolt up and re tighten it, but not with the impact gun..ask them to use a 1/2 big rachet ...Nut will not come loose ...you can then drive the car home and remove the bolt ..


However,, i do agree with you about spraying some rust penetrant ( wd40, pb blaster etc etc ) on the bolt and let it sit for a while