92 Accord LX Chokes/Dies Under Load
#11
I've seen a number of threads in various forums about how to go about the removal of those plugs and there seems to be a multitude of ways to do it. The same goes for resealing those ports. How would you recommend I go about it?
#12
Google T2T013.pdf and download that file. There are some good pictures to show you how to remove the plug. You can make a slide hammer using a long wood screw, some washers, and a socket.
If you don't drill through the plug, they are reusable. You may just want to get new egr port plugs.
If you don't drill through the plug, they are reusable. You may just want to get new egr port plugs.
#13
Fantastic! I am going to pick me up a small slide hammer today and see where I can get. I will also see if one of my local auto stores has a loaner fuel pressure kit that might fit my car. I'll update soon.
#14
We usually drill them with a bit sized so that when done we can tap them and install a 7mm x 1.00 thread pitch short bolt. If you do it this way be sure to add bearing grease to both the drill bit and tap and keep it cleaned and greased to prevent metal flakes for getting into the chamber. The reason we do the plug style EGR ports this way is that if the ports ever need to be serviced again we just remove the bolts clean and reinstall.
However, before doing the ports your should check the valve.
However, before doing the ports your should check the valve.
#15
I managed to get one of the egr plugs off yesterday before going inside. It is most certainly clogged. Unfortunately, some metal flakes did fall in so it appears I'll need to do some very good vacuuming.
The valve I cleaned a while back before knowing how to deal with the ports. It seems to moved fine but I haven't checked it with a hand vacuum. My friend has one, I'll test it with that soon.
The valve I cleaned a while back before knowing how to deal with the ports. It seems to moved fine but I haven't checked it with a hand vacuum. My friend has one, I'll test it with that soon.
#16
I pulled the EGR plugs and cleaned the ports. Put in new plugs. I also cleaned the IACV. Reinstalled everything and tried to start her. No luck. Would turn over and hear occasional random combustion. I tried over and over in short bursts of attempts every few minutes for about fifteen minutes. Got it to barely idle once and then she died. Later in the day I thought what the hell, give her a couple cranks and try again. First time no luck, second time no luck, third time she starts! Very poor idle. After letting it sit for a minute she idled like she did before but still almost dies if I lightly tap the throttle. If I just push down the throttle I can rev to whatever RPM just fine, but a light tap still nearly kills it.
I read that if you pull the vacuum line to the EGR port, the engine should stumble unless ports are clogged. If it doesn't stumble, could that also indicate a faulty valve?
I have noticed that it smells like it's burning rich which could possibly indicate a bad O2 sensor? Correct?
I read that if you pull the vacuum line to the EGR port, the engine should stumble unless ports are clogged. If it doesn't stumble, could that also indicate a faulty valve?
I have noticed that it smells like it's burning rich which could possibly indicate a bad O2 sensor? Correct?
#18
I haven't changed out those parts yet. I changed the plugs about 8 months ago with NGKs. I did pull them out and look at them and they seem to be fine, they are gapped appropriately. Wires, cap and rotor have not been changed out yet but I did look at the rotor and cap and they seemed ok as well. A little carbon on the contacts, but I cleaned that off. I will actually be ordering new plugs, wires, cap and rotor here soon just to get those out of the way. I did find that the lead wire from the coil pack to the distributor (excuse me if I got the terminology incorrect) had been sitting against a metal clip atop the engine and it had melted through and been arcing there for I don't know how long. Likely this has something to do with my problem I bet. For now I moved it and covered it with electrical tape so it makes no contact with anything.
The tach does move when it doesn't want to start.
The tach does move when it doesn't want to start.
#19
New spark plugs, wires, rotors and cap have all been replaced. No change. I noticed that the old plugs smell quite strong of gas and were a bit black. (I had tried starting it randomly to get it to idle but no luck. Worked one day last month but not since then.) Now, if I crank it you can hear it try to start and then nothing. Usually on the second or third attempt it will start and run for about five seconds and then just dies. I am going to buy a spark tester and rent a fuel pressure gauge next.
#20
Long story short, the fuel pump was bad. Put the old one back in and she started. Runs pretty rough though. I'll start a new thread for that problem. Unless you guys think I should keep this all within this thread?
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misscarol
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05-09-2014 01:27 PM