Hi,

It's me again. I have been away from my Honda for two months. To recap the problem:

1. Drive on interstate four hours, no problem
2, Notice occasional high speed miss
3. At exit, experience low speed stall with nearly instant re-start on its own
4. Return the four hours with occasional HS miss and LS stall

Once during #4, the CEL came on and eventually went off.

Now, I short the trouble code connector and get upon moving the key to #2 position:

one short blink
one moderate-length pause
then 100 short blinks...I gave up after 100.

Suggestions? Thanks,

Roy

'92 AT 2-door LX 130k; recent timing belt change

Also note: I had a similar, but worse problem, a week before I discovered this problem. The earlier problem was "solved" with a new rotor and rotor shield (which was busted into 2 parts when I bought the car)

 

Anyone?

Thanks,

Roy

 

Does the Check engine light turn on for ~2 seconds when you turn the key to the II position (don't try to start the car)?

 

Hi PA,

I pull out the paper clip jump wire; turn the key to "on" and all the normal dash lights come on including the CEL. The CEL stays lit for about 2 seconds and then goes out. The car starts and runs fine.

I think it will not act up until it is driven for a good while.

Thanks,

Roy

 

OK, I am checking back in and letting everyone know how this worked out.

To recap:

1. At 40 mph, tach slammed to zero and car stalled; started right up
2. Later after 4 hours of highway driving, got a high-speed miss; then when I exited, got low-speed stall with instant re-start.

Never a CEL.

I was never able to adequately diagnose the problem; I hate throwing parts at a problem, but that is what I did and it worked.

10 months ago, I slapped in OEM: cap, rotor, rotor shield, ignitor, and coil.

The problems seems to have been solved. Thanks to all who helped with this.

Roy

 

Thank you for posting a solution. Glad that you figured it out.

That flashing check engine light is strange. The way you describe the problem, I would guess that the ignitor was the culprit.

For other people with the tach dropping to zero, some O'Reilly Auto Parts stores have a machine that can test the ignitor.

 

Hi PA,

I, too, thought it was the ignitor. But, someone wrote that a bad coil can wreck a new ignitor.

I think one of the causes of my inability to diagnose, was that the problem only showed up after the car ran at highway speed for many hours. And, immediately after a stall, it would start right back up.

Transient, intermittent, under-certain-conditions-only problems are the worst.

Roy