My GF was driving the car, calls and says the tach and speedometer both dropped to 0, and the engine is idling low like it wants to stall. Did a quick search, and I couldn't really find anything with those 3 issues together. I had her turn on the Hi-beams and the blower to high, just to verify if the alternator is going out. She said the battery light came on when she started it and flashed twice and went out. I figure this is just the bulb test.

It has a newer battery, but at 331k miles, and me only having it since 200,008 miles, no idea if the alternator is OE or not. Looks to be. My question is are there any sensor feed or sensor ground wires that these issues may have in common? I figure the VSS and the MAP, CKP, or other sensors could share a sensor feed, but I would think the Tach signal is just from the dizzy, which I have put 2 from the JY on in the past 6 years, and they failed ones just died, never gave indication of failure/weakness.

Where should I be looking? Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

I would have the battery and alternator tested at a parts store.

 

Ok, so now the power windows don't work (2 door car). Took it up to Auto Zone, they tested the battery and alt, all good.

Any suggestions? I'm limited to a Haynes manual, so wiring diagrams are gonna be my limiting factor, I know they never have what I need in these manuals.. If someone has a good .pdf or whatever, even a good link, to wiring diagrams, that would help immensely. Especially ground locations!

 

Check Online Manuals post in DIY for links to download manual. Any model from 90-93 should work for wiring diagrams.

Tach and speedometer work from separate feed signals; tach uses distributor signal and speedometer uses Vehicle Speed Sensor feed. Only thing common is the gauge panel board and wiring harness.

good luck

 

But what stumps me is the idle issue and windows. They all started at the same time, like they all have something in common. The temp gauge is also included in the inopportune issues... fuel gauge is on full, but can't use that as a diagnosis since she just filled the tank right before it all happened...

 

I would disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables. I would use a wire brush or some sand paper.

If you find one of those manuals, locate the grounds throughout the engine and inside the car and clean them the same way. I may be worth the $20 to buy a shop manual as a pdf from sites like Ebay.

 

I figured tomorrow I'll look for any body grounds that are broke/missing. It's gotta be something like that. The battery terminals aren't that bad looking, that was one of the first things I did - grabbed them and shook for looseness.

 

Well, I just found the online manuals, and downloaded the one for the "Honda Accord CC7" What does the CC7 mean? Not to sound ignorant, but I know each Mfr has their own way of writing the manuals, and many times they send their beginner techs to a class just to learn how to read them. I downloaded this file, and it has 2 parts, one "62SN700.pdf", and the other "62SN720.pdf". What is the difference in these two parts? I am guessing these are the manuals I'll need for my 93 Accord LX 2dr, right?

Thanks for the info, I know I'm a nooB on this forum, but I do appreciate the help!

 

Usually honda has a repair manual and a wiring diagram manual. You want the repair manual, because it should show you the pictures of the ground locations. It is the larger of the two files.

The CC is the chassis. I also downloaded that manual and it may cover non-us accords as well a US accords. There may be a differences so you are aware.

The ground locations shown in the electrical section under relay/ground location or something like that.

 

Yeah, I was able to find the ground locations and such after some looking around the index. I figured it may be a body code, but I'm not that familiar with the body codes for Honda - this is my first that I've owned...

I noticed it has LHD and RHD, so I figured it might cover the non-US ones too, don't see to many mail delivery Accords