OK, been checking grounds and such, all look good, solid, clean. Figured I'd start with the power windows first, since it seems to be the easiest. There is no power to turn on the window relay. Flipping thru these pages, I am wondering a few things:

Is this the right manual? The illustrations do not really look like my year - they are more rounded like the newer body style. The power window switch is pictured in the console in a couple pics - mine is on the door.

What does the KS, KE, KF, and KG mean? I'm figuring they are the body model designation, like the DX, LX, EX, and SW, but which is which? I looked thru the manual into and such, but couldn't find my answer.

 

That manual may show only European accords. The wiring should be similar to your accord.

Can you get the car to start acting up by shaking the key while the engine is running? Clean any grounds you can find. They may look good, but still have a bad connection. Happened on my friend's eclipse.

There is a ground under the thermostat housing that can cause some strange electrical problems.

You can switch the power window relay with another identical relay to verify they relay is working properly. I think the condenser fan relay is identical.

It may be worth the money to buy a pdf for your car from ebay. A Haynes manual should help as well.

 

I have a 93 and those wiring schematics from those PDFs in the DIY section are nothing like how these US cars are wired. The Haynes manual was actually decent. I just spent about 30 hours tracing down a short in my small light fuse, had everything torn out including the fuse block.

 

The window relay I used my test light for checking. There is no power on the control side. I'll try a different relay tomorrow.

The wiring diagrams seem to be in line with the car. I was just hoping that it wasn't a mis-label on the year...

 

There should be two pins to the relay that have 12V. The third pin should have ground. The fourth pin will have ground when you hit a window switch to open/close.

If you only have one pin, you will need to check fuses. The #5 fuse in the box inside the car is a 7.5 amp. The other pin with voltage is only protected by the big 80 amp fuse. If that fuse was blown, then a lot of other stuff in the car would not work.

 

All fuses are good - test light lit on both sides of all fuses. I do only have power on one pin on 1 of the 4 pins. Same as I have no power it seems to any of the dash - that is my next plan of attack - pulling the dash and checking for power/grounds...

 

You will have to find the problem on the wire that is missing voltage between the relay socket in the engine bay fuse box and the fuse box under the driver's dash.

I just don't know which wire color is missing voltage. If you look at the relay, there are usually two pins with better metal (high amp side) and the crappier metal which is the low amp side. Which pin is missing the voltage?

 

It's a brass terminal that has power, the silver (aluminum?) terminals have no power going to them.

I haven't had a chance to get out there and look anything today. Kinda slept in too late before work, wasn't worth even getting started with an hour before work.. Maybe tomorrow...

 

Ok, an update.. SOMEHOW I managed to not check the fuses under the dash properly, and today I found the 10A fuse labeled "Backup/ECU/gauges" blown. So, as I type this I realize, that is probably the memory for the ECU ("Backup") and it is also the main power for the dash. I was thinking it had to do with the Backup LIGHTS... So now it is working properly, took it for a drive, the windows work now, and the gauges read fine. The engine even runs better!

I'm deducing that since it blew while she was driving, the windows worked until the power to them was cut, which is when the ECUs lost memory. Then when she restarted to bring it to me, they didn't work. I know many engines are that was with a crank sensor - they run till you turn it off, then the crank position is "forgotten" so the next time trying to start the PCM has no idea when to fire from no crank reference... thus my deductions.

Now wondering what caused it to blow, and will it do it again? Anyways, thanks for the help guys!

 

If the problem returns, then start doing some electrical troubleshooting. At least you know what part of the circuit had a fuse blow.