Hello All!

Im back with a new set of problems. Previously i reported a problem with my car having a problematic idle and stall. Cleaned IACV after that and it kind of improved a bit. Another problem that came in is that when i shift to R or D then accelerate or turn the aircon on, the car would sputter as if going to die and many times it would die. When it has gained speed it runs fine but during slow speeds there will be something like a hesitation or loss of power (sputter) and many times it would stall. When i restart it, it would start right away (in P or N so no load).

Ive recently done maintenance on it but the symptoms I mentioned were already there before maintenance. It just got worse though after the maintenance.

Maintenance:
- Spark Plugs replaced
- Air Filter replaced
- Throttle body sprayed with cleaner
- IACV cleaned
- Radiator replaced (old was leaking at the top seams)
- Radiator fans replaced (one of the fans broke off blades)
- Thermostat replaced
- Battery terminals cleaned

Also last week the nut holding the passenger side radius rod flew off and so the metal tube, bushing, and plate fell. Is it dangerous to drive a car with those off for short distances? Its the only car ive got in going to work. As mentioned in my other thread Im really short in funds. I just shed $150+ on my maintenance above.

Im planning to bring the car to a shop about a month from now or two but until then what can I do to improve the car's situation. Will adding fuel system cleaner help? Does this indicate transmission problem or any drive belt problems? I never saw the check engine light come on so far

Please advice

Thanks!

 

Ok this is bad. I just had my car towed a while ago. Now it jerks a lot and stall when I switch to drive, reverse, or anything that has load on the engine. Is my car doomed?

 

I doubt that your car is doomed.

It sounds like you have a problem with the spark or the fuel delivery. Are you trying to diagnose, or are you having a shop do the work?

If you are talking about the sway-bar end link that has several rubber bushings between metal plates, then you can drive without it. It links that bar to the steering knuckle or lower control arm (can't remember off hand). The car won't corner as smoothly when turning.

 

The radius rod goes forward to a subframe, that's not the sway bar. Be VERY gentle driving without that connected. It supports the fore-aft forces of the wheel, which is acceleration & braking. With that loose, it's much easier for the wheel to move fore & aft within the wheel well. Not good because it'll be easy to bend things.

 

If I take it to a shop will it cost a lot to have the bushings reinstalled again?

Btw, what fuel system cleaner would you guys recommend? I read a lot of things such as techron and seafoam. Will these chemicals possibly help my car?

Thanks!

 

you mentioned that you changed your plugs . did you change or inspect the distributor cap,rotor and wires. check all contact points

 

Did #1 come loose or did #11?

 

It's #28 passenger side that flew off. The only ones left in my hands are #18, #14, and #17. The #9 still sits on the subframe but without the end stoppers. I think #13, #18, and #16 are still with the #9 since they are behind the subframe where #9 sits.

I did not check the spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Would it be alright to remove the plug wires one by one to check if one is not firing up while the car is running?

Thanks!

 

With that radius rod disconnected, you'll be in trouble if you have to hit the brake. The wheel, control arm, & strut can "hinge" backwards, pulling #9 out of it's socket, until it hits something. That radius rod is needed to hold it in place.

 

The easiest way to test for spark is to use a timing light. See if the timing light flashes at the same rate on each plug wire.

If not, I would buy a spark tester at a parts store. Pull a plug wire off with the engine turned off and ground the tester. They usually have an alligator style clip that I would connect to a clean ground. Start the car and look at the spark on the tester.

You don't want the spark plug wire not to have ground, because the spark will ground through you, the spark plug wire, or the coil. Spark grounding through the coil can damage the coil. Spark grounding through you can hurt you as well.