Do you know the size of #28? Im thinking of trying reinstalling the end parts myself. If not then off to the shop next month.

For the spark plug wires, I removed one by one the wire from their plugs with car turned off and then turned on (I read it somewhere that its fine so I tried it without holding the wires). It seems that with each removed, the engine was sluggish. Does this mean that all 4 are still good? Whats next for me to test?

By the way, when I change to R or D, the car seems to jerk really hard and then stall. Is this transmission related? Im inclined to buy something like Lucas Transmission oil fix and techron fuel system cleaner as it seems this car was never maintained properly by the previous owner. Are these chemicals safe for the car? Are there other brands better than I've mentioned? What about seafoam?

Thanks!

 

I would only use honda tranny fluid in your tranny . and listen to what jimblake wrote.
that wheel is basically a unicycle. and you know how unstable they are. I wouldn't drive this car . buy the parts. if you have a jack you can fix this your self even if you can't torque the nut down.

 

#28 is a 12mm self-locking nut based on some car parts sites. I have a jack and safety stands. Guess ill try doing this myself on the weekend with a friend's help

Thanks!

 

Back to the "sputter/stall"-when was the last time the rest of the tune up items replaced (cap, rotor, wire inspected)? Also does this happen when the engine is cold and hot or more so on one or the other.

 

I did not get the tune up history of the car from the previous owner because he doesnt know either when he bought it. So i just went my own and did my maintenance of the basic parts as mentioned on the initial post. The sputter/stall will get worse when the car has warmed up and has load (D or R or aircon). Will the transmission engage if the aircon is on?

Thanks!

 

? Not sure what this question is. Anyway, as you have started to do, without knowing you need to set a base line on the tune up stuff (cap, rotor, fluid changes including trans, filters, ect).

I would hate to go down the path of testing coil, ICM, egr ports, ign switch, egr valve to find out that the cap and rotor were bad.

 

So bought 12mm nut from autozone and attempted to fix the radius rod problem and was a success. Performed additional maintenance stuff:

- Added a bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner to tank out of desperation
- Changed oil (the oil was filthy black!)
- Changed oil filter using honda filter
- Added transmission oil (marker was in low level)

While idling the car for about 10 minutes, I observed that the sputter was slowly improving (there were still small ones) and the stall never occurred anymore with aircon engaged. Then after about 30 minutes I decided to drive the car. Man it was running smoother now!!! The switch to D or R surge was still there but its a lot smoother!

Now based on these, what could have caused the sputter/stall issue:

1. Was it due to low transmission fluid? I realized that when I replaced the radiator there was a line going to the radiator that is not for coolant and references says its for transmission fluid. I never topped off the fluid when I replaced the radiator so that may explain low fluid level.

2. Was it due to dirty fuel system? Maybe the car's fuel injector is dirty that caused the sputters.

3. Was it due to dirty motor oil? It was just about 2K miles since the last oil change according to the oil change sticker schedule posted on the car

4. Was it due to the radius rod? I doubt it.

What do you guys think?

Thanks!

 

I'd think #2.....if memory serves you just got this so there is no telling how long it has been sitting. Might think about "keeping full" for a bit-meaning when it gets to half tank, fill up. Do this for about the next 600~700 miles, see if the issue returns, if not start letting it get lower, should have run it/mixed it up by then. I would then plan on a fuel filter replacement.....good luck.

 

Ok will do that. Thanks for the help guys!!!

 

Anytime....most of us are here to do just that help someone willing to be helped......your last reply is the only payment we ever get....So thank you.