I have an intermittent problem with my '93 Accord not starting at times. It does'nt happen everytime but occasionally. I have been searching all the threads to try to figure out what the problem is but can't find a difinitive answer. Things I have done so far: New main relay two weeks ago, new plugs and wires 5 months ago, new complete distibutor 4 months ago. The problem has been occuring for about a month. I can tell you that when I turn the ignition to the on position I can hear the fuel pump come on for two seconds and then go off. Some times the check engine light also turns off but sometimes the check engine light will stay on even after the fuel pump turns off. When the CEL stays on I know it will not start, only crank over. I have been able to narrow it down to being an electrical problem but can't narrow it down to the specific problem. I have prety much ruled ot the ignitor (4 months old) and the main relay (2 weeks old). I also checked the codes in the ECU but all it came up with is a MAP sensor code #5. Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks.

 

Actually, I've never heard of a defective MAP sensor. It must happen and if the code is on constantly, I would check the sensor per shop manual (see DIY section for download of a 90-93 manual).

The keyswitch assembly has been problematic for many Accords. When no-start occurs check the blk/yel wire at the distributor connector (harness side) for 12V. If you find no voltage, the keyswitch assy is the problem.

good luck

 

I've also read somewhere in this message board (I don't remember where though) that if the check engine light stays on longer than the 2 seconds after turning the key to the on position that the problem could be a faulty ECU, Is this correct?

 

You could have a faulty ECU. However, a failed ECU will still allow the car to start. Everyone is always ready to blame ECU, and it is very rare to have one fail, based on observation.

good luck

 

This is very frustrating, It has now been about four days with no problems. I'm affraid to drive it because I never know when it's going to start acting up again and leave me stranded. Are there any tests I can do even while it's starting now?

 

This is the dilemma of an intermittent failure. You can't find the bad component because there are no present symptoms. You can start replacing parts in hope of hitting the right part before your wallet empties. A bad option.

Intermittent problems like this are usually fuel related; main fuel relay or fuel pump. I had a sticking fuel pump on my 94EX that caused much grief before I confimed pump was not running while power was applied (tell-tale light on fuel pump power line).

If you'll pay close attention each time you attempt to start, you may catch the problem. When keyswitch is turned to ON, you should hear two clicks from under the dash (Main Fuel Relay contacts closing). Immediately you should hear the fuel pump in the fuel tank softly whirring. Quiet conditions are necessary to detect the fuel pump and MFR clicks. If you hear clicks, but no fuel pump the fuel pump is sticking (not starting due to friction or electrical fault in motor). If you don't hear the MFR clicks, the MFR is suspect.

Note, failure of MFR to make contact could be a bad keyswitch but you should notice the dash alerts; Check Engine and Alternator lights don't come on.

good luck

 

When I turn the key to the on position I hear the two clicks and I can also hear the fuel pump whirring and then stop after two seconds. The times that I know the car will not start is when I turn the key to the on position and I hear the two clicks and the fuel pump, the check engine light will stay on indefinately instead of turning off after two seconds like it's supposed to.

 

I would focus on determining what is missing when no-start occurs; fuel or fire. While I would not rule out ECU, this so rarely is the problem that I would exhaust other possibilities first. Since you confirm correct fuel system function, even when no-start occurs, I would focus on confirming whether ignition power is available. Either check blk/yel wire for 12V when no-start occurs, or rig a tell-tale light to show every time you start whether that is the case. If power is always available, then ECU seems to be all that's left.

Check car-part.com for a used ECU near your zip.

good luck

 

Ok, I won't be able to check it until Tuesday.Once I can check it I will post the results. Thank you for your help.