94 Accord Auto trans hard shifting
#1
94 Accord Auto trans hard shifting
First post, other than my intro:
I just picked up another 94 Accord to replace my totaled one. My first was a DX manual, this one is an EX Auto. It's got 166k miles on it.
The auto trans seemed to be shifting hard and at the wrong time. First thing I did was check the throttle position cable adjustment and it was a little loose. That seemed to help with the shift points. It still seems to shift harder when cold and a little better warmed up. My first thought was to change the ATF. I checked it and it seems to be filled properly and clean. Since the car is used, who knows the history of course.
Next question, is any ATF OK in this car or does it need to be Honda brand? I know some vehicles require OEM fluids.
Thanks in advance.
Sean
I just picked up another 94 Accord to replace my totaled one. My first was a DX manual, this one is an EX Auto. It's got 166k miles on it.
The auto trans seemed to be shifting hard and at the wrong time. First thing I did was check the throttle position cable adjustment and it was a little loose. That seemed to help with the shift points. It still seems to shift harder when cold and a little better warmed up. My first thought was to change the ATF. I checked it and it seems to be filled properly and clean. Since the car is used, who knows the history of course.
Next question, is any ATF OK in this car or does it need to be Honda brand? I know some vehicles require OEM fluids.
Thanks in advance.
Sean
#2
This is one of those questions that works great for sparking arguments... lol
Generally speaking, if you can do it, I'd suggest sticking with the Honda ATF-Z1 and maybe throw a little bit of some lubeguard (lucas?) in with it for a higher mileage car.
Can you put in regular synthetic ATF? Sure, but that's not how it was designed. It will function pretty normal but it sounds like the normal you're getting now feels weird so I'd go back to factory personally....
Generally speaking, if you can do it, I'd suggest sticking with the Honda ATF-Z1 and maybe throw a little bit of some lubeguard (lucas?) in with it for a higher mileage car.
Can you put in regular synthetic ATF? Sure, but that's not how it was designed. It will function pretty normal but it sounds like the normal you're getting now feels weird so I'd go back to factory personally....
#4
I'd rather run OEM if it makes it shift better. I don't know what's in it currently, other than it looks pretty clean. The work thats been done on this car seems a little off since it's got a shiny new starter in it and just about everything around the starter was reinstalled incorrectly or not at all including the shift cable. It's got a recent oil change sticker in the window so that's a good sign but it leaks a ton of oil right now. Another issue to nail down.
As far as reading the ECU, is this the main ECU or is there something separate for the trans? There are no check engine lights.
As far as reading the ECU, is this the main ECU or is there something separate for the trans? There are no check engine lights.
#5
As "Sir" said, not sure if that was directed towards me....where is PA? ...sometimes this can turn into a debate. Anyway, I'm totally with using Honda Z1 (being replaced by DW1, so if you can't find Z1 but do find DW1-use it) fluid in these trans. Then if you are not sure, I'd plan on ~3 drain and fill cycles with Honda fluid. That will get most of the old out and set a good baseline for the next change.
I'm sure you checked the mounts, if not please do.
Don't need a codes reader for a 94, jump the service connector and check for blinks from either the D4 or CEL light. There are codes that can be set without making the CEL or D4 come on or flash while driving but will show up when the connector is jumped.
I'm sure you checked the mounts, if not please do.
Don't need a codes reader for a 94, jump the service connector and check for blinks from either the D4 or CEL light. There are codes that can be set without making the CEL or D4 come on or flash while driving but will show up when the connector is jumped.
#6
Picked up 4 quarts of DW1 at the dealer, they've already switched over and no longer carry the other stuff. I'll drain and change probably this weekend and see if there is any improvement. They wanted $180 to flush it at the dealer. This DW1 is over $8 a quart, friggen insane.
Where would I find the service connector jumper?
Where would I find the service connector jumper?
#9
staple won't work bro. need to use a paper clip
#10
If no codes are stored, the check engine light will turn on and not blink if you properly shorted that connector.
Most of what I have read says to use Honda ATF. In my 95 shop manual it says to use Honda ATF or and equivalent Dextron2 ATF.
Most of what I have read says to use Honda ATF. In my 95 shop manual it says to use Honda ATF or and equivalent Dextron2 ATF.