I've been fixing up my 94 Accord lately (I replaced the radiator and the thermostat), and I thought I would look into why my ABS light comes on shortly after driving. I shorted the blue plug and it gives me DTC 13, which according to the chart I found, is "high pressure leakage".

The regular brakes work fine.
The ABS fluid looks clear and is at MAX line. When I start the car, the ABS light is off. The ABS unit makes a buzzing noise (I think it might be the ABS pump) for about 10 seconds, then stops. About 1 minute later, it buzzes for about 3 seconds, then stops. It does this 3 or 4 times, then I hear a "click" near the passenger seat and the ABS light comes on. No more buzzing after that (it's like it gives up). However, if I look at the fluid level at this point, it's much lower (about 1/2 inch below the MIN line now) or rather, it drops about 1 inch all together (it was at max). By the time I drive around and then stop the car, the ABS fluid is back at MAX line again (completely full).

So, I'm looking around the ABS unit for leaks and I don't see any fluid leaking. However, it looks like the lower band or maybe a fiberglass seal on the bottom of the ABS accumulator is coming off ... like the accumulator has ruptured (see attached). Everything is fairly clean, except the side of the accumulator which is dirty/greasy right near the rupture.

I've read on these forums that bleeding the ABS system can sometimes fix a code 1-3, but I've also read the accumulators fail often on these older cars. I was hoping someone could look at my accumulator and let me know if this is normal (and they still work) in which case I will try to bleed the ABS system. Or, is this rupture a sign that the accumulator has failed in which case only bleeding is in no way going to help.

Thanks in advance and nice forum you have here (lots of good info).

1994 Honda Accord EX-L Coupe - 2.2L MFI VTEC 4cyl - KA 4AT

 

The abs unit isn't something that is easily disassembled to internal repairs. You might want to pick up a used modulator from a junkyard. Search car-part.com for used parts locally. A U-Pull-It place would be a good source for used parts. Ebay is another source.

 

Thanks for the reply and sources.

I guess I should have mentioned that this car has never been in a wreck (I bought it new, so I know) so the damage to the accumulator (the lower rupture) happened from the inside out.

So, if you were working on this car, and saw this obvious defect in the accumulator, would you go ahead and try to bleed the ABS system (to get it working), or would you just replace the whole ABS modulator unit?

 

I would probably try to bleed the system to see if that will fix the problem, since that would be a cheap and quick fix.

In the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum, there is a link to online shop manuals that has a 94 manual that you can download. That will have the proper bleeding procedure for the ABS.

 

Since the ABS system is completely separate on these older Accords, and the car is just as safe to drive as any other similar older car without ABS (my regular brakes work fine) ...

... it there any way to disable the ABS system, BUT in a way that does not leave the ABS dash light on?

I would be willing to find and unplug whatever I need to (as long as it doesn't affect any other car systems).

 

I am not a big fan of disabling safety features. You should be able to find a cheap ABS modulator unit at a junkyard. Check out car-part.com to find prices in your area.

To disable the ABS and the ABS light, you should be able to unplug the ABS control unit. If you pull all of the fuses out of the ABS fuse box, this may work as well.

 

I just don't see how some other 15-18 year old ABS Modulator could work any better than mine does. I took good care of my car and mine still didn't make it 15 years.

I tried removing the B1 and B2 fuses in the special ABS fuse box. They just make the ABS light come on right away after starting the car. Where exactly is the "ABS Control Unit" that you suggest I unplug?

 

It is in the engine bay in the area of the fuse box. If you downloaded that shop manual that I mentioned earlier, it will have a drawing showing the component locations of the ABS system.

 

I will look under the hood again.

I found this doc ... but it only shows the ABS Modulator parts ... nothing near the ABS Fuse box.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...systems-31259/

"ABS Control Unit" is the ABS computer, right?

 

There is an oring seal at the base of the accumulator. It may be leaking allowing stored pressure to decline. I think the system tries several times to pump up and if no success, sets the ABS light.

I remember replacing this oring, but it's been a long time and I don't remember exactly how I did the job. I think I pulled the modulator to access the retaining mechanism. Pulling modulator takes perhaps 20 mins. You will need a 10mm flare tubing nut wrench to turn the tubing nuts which can be very, very tight.

I've found that bleeding the ABS is not necessary. If system is working it will circulate the fluid until all air is removed. If you remove the modulator, it will be necessary to bleed as air will enter lines disconnected from modulator. There is a bleed mechanism if you decide you need to do this.

Used modulators are readily available for < $50. Check car-part.com for a unit near your zip code and go by yard to inspect/purchase. Make sure you get a no fix/return agreement as junk yard modulators can be faulty, and they will never be pre-tested. Honda used this same modulator on Accords from 94-97 at least and there are plenty of used units available.

I've been fortunate w/ my 94EX which is still on original ABS modulator. I had to replace my daughter's modulator in 97 Acura CL (exact same unit) and found out about the ABS system.

You can't turn out the ABS light w/o pulling the bulb.

good luck