Apparently the Accord didn't like me fixing the odometer, because now it doesn't start reliably...

Problem started on Saturday - it was pretty warm outside. Was driving around in the city, pulled over to make a couple calls and the car would not restart. Cranked happily, wouldn't start. Let it sit for about 20 minutes, then decided to check the fuel pump fuse. It looked good, so I cranked it over and and it restarted as if nothing had happened. About 30 minutes later I stopped the car, wouldn't restart. Waited 20 minutes, restarted just fine.

Three days went by, no further problems. It sat from Tuesday AM until tonight (Thursday night) and it wouldn't start. Checked fuel pump fuse again a little more carefully, plugged it back in, car started just fine. Drove two miles, turned off & tried to restart (for fun) and it wouldn't. Since it was dark, I pulled a plug wire off and stuck a bare metal key in and cranked it. Good, bright spark. Reconnected the plug wire, tried to start it and it
sputtered but wouldn't run.

Any guesses based on this info? Main relay, fuel pump, maybe fuel filter? Gonna go bust out the manual (bought the factory set) but I thought I'd seek opinions here as well...

Thanks!

 

Likely a fuel problem. Verify by spraying starter fluid into the throttle body when it isn't starting to see if it fires up for a moment.

Listen for the fuel pump to prime for about two seconds when you initially turn the key to the II position. If you don't hear it when the car is not starting, then its either the fuel pump or the main relay.

 

Should have mentioned - I never hear the pump prime.

I crawled under the dash and found what I believe is the main relay. The pins are marked differently on the relay than in the manual, but I think it's it. Mitsuba part number is RZ-0088, which shows up all over the internet as a Honda main relay.

When I turn the key, there is no action from the relay - I think it's mechanical, so I'd expect a click or something. I pulled it out, and it fails all the continuity tests in the manual.

Unless I've got the wrong relay, it sounds like it's toast.

Tomorrow I'll jump the connector and see if the fuel pump runs. I'm guessing it will.

 

Key ON but don't turn immediately to START.

The main relay should click once immediately. CEL turns on (bulb check) and the fuel pump starts running. The fuel pump is quieter than a C900, so turn off the ventilation, etc.
After 2 seconds it should click again. CEL turns off & the fuel pump stops.

The NORMAL way for the main relay to fail, it clicks, but doesn't close the circuit to the fuel pump. So if it clicks, you can use the sound to verify you've found the right relay.

Also... pop open the case for the main relay. Re-melt the solder on the circuit board. That's the fix for the common failure. But YOUR main relay might be suffering from cracks in any of the other solder points on the PCB.

The main relay is really 2 relays in the same case. One switches power to the fuel pump. The other switches power to the ECU and to most of the solenoids, sensors, & injectors in the car.

 

Yeah - the Honda behaves like every other car in the world (other than a Saab) with the two second pump prime. But I'm getting nothing. Obviously that could be from a dead pump (can't ever hear it), but I cannot see nor hear a click from the relay. Again, not positive I have the right relay but ebay etc. has a pile of listings for RZ-0088 Honda Main Relay, so I'm pretty sure I've got the right thing.

I have it out of the car and the plastic case off of it. When I follow the shop manual's test (connect +/- to pins X/Y test for continuity at pins A/B) I get nothing on any of the tests. I'm assuming this relay is fried...

The only thing making noise in the car is the damn chime... I was trying to find that last night so I could remove it and have utter silence in the car, but I don't know what I'm looking for, and there's a tangle of wires under the dash.

I know if I jumper a pair of pins on the main relay's connector I'll get the pump to run. I just would like to be positive RZ-0088 is in fact the main relay before I jumper something incorrectly. If it wasn't for the fact that the label on the relay shows different pin#s than the manual indicates, I'd have no hesitation.

 

Replaced relay - all fixed!

 

Excellent!