You mention the oil pump, but that doesn't need to be timed. It doesn't control events like valves and you don't take the oil pump apart when doing the timing belt.

The balance shafts have an alignment process that's explained pretty well in the shop manual. That's worthwhile to get a copy.

PS. Why do you mention F23 in the thread title? Your car would have an F22 unless it was swapped. Procedures are almost the same, but still good to know what you actually have.

 

I normally bring the engine up to #1, then do what I have to, trying to keep the engine in that same spot, as everything gets timed off that point. I don't worry about any degrees of the oil pump or the balance shaft spinning. I just follow the instructions in the FSM, or the timing belt sheet that comes in the belt kit. I try not to add any extra thought to it, or try to deviate from what is written. It worked for Honda, so why should I try to rewrite the procedure.

Unless you're pulling the oil pump, I wouldn't worry too much about it. It slides onto the crank with a flat spot to drive it.
The rear balance shaft has a hole in it on 1 side that you pin to get it in alignment for the other balance shaft gears. The front balance shaft has a line in it that is visible from the top, that aligns with a mark on the front of the engine. The bottom one is the crank gear.
All timing and balance shaft belt timing are from the crankshaft gear (both belts go on it).
The crank gear has a dot/line for you to you match up with a mark on the face of the oil pump. The cam has an arrow with up on it, along with 2 other marks at 3 and 9. This is to verify you're in the correct location for the timing.
Keep in mind this IS a reverse rotation engine (runs CCW).

Once you have everything back together, you oil the threads of the crank bolt, then torque it to 150 ft lbs.
I hope this helps.

 

Jim, you make good points. I think he was looking at pulling the oil pump to replace the seal in it. But to get the pump off, you have to drop the pan, which is a lot of work, since it's held on with Honda bond.
I believe he does have an F22B1, which has the same timing belt instructions and procedures as the F23. That's the 1 thing I liked about using the Aisin timing belt & water pump kit from Rock Auto, as it has a great, well detailed instruction sheet in it. It also includes new tensioner bearings and Honda springs. I've used 3 of their kits, and I like them.

P.S. Aisin pumps are made by Toyota.

 

I missed the part where he's going to remove the oil pump. But still, you don't have to time the oil pump.

 

I'm not sure I was going to do the oil pump... I just remembered reading about these extra seals that everyone says "do it or your engine will die" like cam seals and such, and I figure i'd better do anything else i'm forced to do. I really dont want the extra work of an oil pump if I can help it. I'll be happy enough if I can put the timing belt on and not have it blow up. (I mean i've done a clutch but i'm not comfortable just because I havent done this job and dont have $900-1000 i'm quoted for someone else to do that, the car is probably worth that at most right now :-P )

Mostly it's that the water pump was leaking like a sieve, and the timing belt i'm sure was not done at 200k because the car shows signs of neglect and has no evidence it was done. It's 240k now. I dont know if I have to do cam seals but it sounds like I really should try to just as a preventative. I dont know if the oil pump will last another 100k but technically it doesn't have to, if I get another 60-70k out of the car I wont be complaining in the slightest. It just has to last a few years until i'm through college, although that can involve 2-3-4 sometimes monthly 500 mile medical trips which add up separate from school during the school year.. I figured the trans was probably good til 300k being an understressed automatic behind the 4cyl, and the fluid being pink with no stink.


The job keeps getting postponed weekend by weekend as other RL problems line up. (now my furnace has failed and that's higher priority) So this is still in the research phase of "what else should I do besides timing belt/water pump if needed" along with apparently those cam seals?

I know my oil pan leaks but i'd rather just let it leak and top it off, if it's such a bear to change out or fix right now. Are oil pumps a common 'instant fail' item between 200-300k if the timing belt is intact or is it something I shouldn't have to worry about unless it shows evidence it's degrading?

 

Honestly, if you're short on cash and time, I'd just do a timing belt/water pump kit, and call it done. That's basically what I've done with both my 99 and my wife's 00 Accords. I only say that, as it sounds like your belt and pump need to be changed. You've gotta take off the belt to do the pump anyway, so those 2 items are a no brainer, unless the belt was replaced recently. Add the 5 dollar retainer clip to the front balance shaft while you have the cover off (takes 5 minutes to install), and call it done. If you want, replace the spark plugs and valve cover gasket, since you'll have them off and out, and call it good to go. You can always do a cap and rotor at this time, or wait. Since you know you have an oil pan leak, doing the seals isn't worth digging into at this time. Keep an eye on the oil level though. I've never seen an oil pump quit, and since a Honda pump is driven by the crank, I doubt it'll fail. Most people replace the pump because they're doing something else at the same time, whether it's rebuilding the engine (most times), or they's pulling the pump to fix a leak (pan or pump).
I hope this helps.

 

Lots of people agree that if a seal isn't leaking, don't mess with it. The retainer to hold the balance shaft seal in place, yes. Not the seal itself unless it's leaking.

 

I'm willing to do it that way, I was just under the impression (including from other videos) that you might as well do it because they will commonly fail past the 200k mile mark anyways (this is 240k) and just ruin your new timing belt install, possibly lunching your engine before the next scheduled 100k later timing belt install.

Is there a way to check for/see leaking without disassembling everything down behind the gaskets? (either before I disassemble it as this job has sat almost totally untouched now, or in the future/after I put in a timing belt and want to check it in awhile or something) I don't really relish tearing into the engine this much just to check for a leak or do the seals later is all... but yes i'd happily NOT do it if I can credibly skip it and not think i'm risking an engine dying. I dont know at what rate they are prone to failure. (ie fine now, dying in 1000 miles or what)

 

The seals we are talking about are all visible when you have the timing covers off. Camshaft, 2 balance shafts, & crankshaft. You can look for oil leaking down from each of these. You might need a mirror or something to get a good view. Granted, by that time you don't want to have to stop working, run out to buy seals, or wait for them to ship... So that's a decision for you to think about.

One thing is the oil pan. But if I remember right, the lower timing cover comes up against the oil pump in a way that the oil pan gasket would leak outside of the timing cover, and the crank seal would leak inside of the timing cover. I think there's a little hole or something right at the bottom for oil to leak out from the bottom of the timing cover.

 

I think there is a hole in the lower cover. On my 99 with 233K on it, I just added the retainer clip. It came with a new seal, but I left the old one in place. Most everything is covered by the cover. If you've had a valve cover leak, you might have a light oil spray on some of it inside (like my son's Civic). Mine had dust, but then it doesn't leak (yes I've parked it for days on clean cement with no spots). On my wife's 00 Accord, I did replace the seal, however that was after the original seal popped out and dumped 3 quarts of oil in 30 feet at idle. It also got a retainer (the 1st one I installed), as I didn't know one existed. I ordered it up thru my local CarQuest, as they had it the next day (Dorman part for 10.95). The local Honda dealership didn't even offer a retainer, but would sell you a new seal for 15 bucks out the door, but they had to order it (would be in in 3 days). She's put over 20K miles on it since I changed the belt and added the clip (3 weeks later). We take her car on road trips, and usually we're on the road for 10 days at a time. Her car does burn a little oil though (about a 1/2 quart every 3K miles), so I try to keep an eye on it. I've had worse, so this isn't bad for the mileage on the car (currently 238,649 miles). We got it with 217K miles on it.