Hello my fellow accord owners, I'm new to this forum, well new to registering. But i've been having a problem with my 94 Honda Accord Ex. I recently replaced the head on my f22b1 engine with another low mileage one due to a timing belt jumping. I followed everything in the service repair manual for things such as timing and putting everything back together. Fast foward all the way to now the car is mobile. But I have been having an issue with the car not being able to go past 3k rpms, it misfires then goes below 3k. I just replaced my ecu from my friends running 94 honda accord (with no electrical issues) and the problem is still there. What really trips me out is that there isnt any check engine light codes coming on, even when I jump the 2pin connector under the glovebox. What else could it be? Ive looked on every single forum and havent got a solid answer yet.

 

Did you have this problem right after you installed the new cylinder head?

Let us know what diagnostics you have already tried.

 

Yeah I would say so, but I already checked for compression. But the cylinder head was resurfaced then installed properly, did the timing properly (although I didnt use a timing light, just marked where the distributor was), and made sure everything was sealed and there was no signs of any leaks. So I thought that it couldve been my spark plugs so I change those out for new ones and nothing, then I swappes ecus from a running accord and still nothing comes when I try jumping the connector yet its still in limp mode.

 

Make sure you attached G101 (a black ground wire) on the driver's side of the upper intake. There is also a ground near the motor mount by the timing belt that you can forget to attach.

The MAP and throttle position sensors have identical connectors and it is possible to switch them. The map sensor (on top of the throttle body) should yel/wht, grn/wht, and a wht/yel wires. The TPS should have grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blue wires.

There are also two connectors on the driver's side of the engine bay near the firewall. The fuel injector resister block (has metal fins) should have 4 red/blk wires. The 5th wire is either red or yellow/black (can't remember). There is another connector that is identical nearby that can be switched.

 

I know I attached those two grounds but ill take em off again tomorrow and clean em up real good then put em back. I found an obd1 diagram explaining the different colorsnof wires for all the sensors on the intake manifold itself and went checked if I switched any of them up and they all checked out. But ill check that injector resistor for any loose wires, I havent checked there. Its just like when it gets to 3k, it misfires bad then drops back down below 3k.