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95 Accord LX rear drum brakes

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  #1  
Old 05-11-2015, 11:49 AM
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Default 95 Accord LX rear drum brakes

Looking for DIY instructions for replacing shoes on the 5th generation accord lx
 
  #2  
Old 05-11-2015, 06:25 PM
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I've moved this to the proper section.

Please do not post "questions" in the DIY section, there is a "sticky" at the top stating this.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:43 PM
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Ah, sorry I was confused as to what the point of the request portion of the diy section was.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:36 PM
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No problem....we do like to to help and will.

I don;t have a full write up will all of the pictures....been meaning to do one,,,,but I will give this a shot with the "way I do these" - just remember we all do things a bit different.

Again this is the way I do these....others will do it different.

You will need a brake "spoon" or proper tool to adjust the "star" wheel on the brake adjuster.

Easy stuff, get the car in the air. Be safe and use jack stands. Remove the cap from the brake mater cyl.

Tire is off. You might need to use the brake "spoon" to loosen the adjuster to remove the drum from the car. Once the drum is off, use brake cleaner and wash everything down...be glad they don't use some of the compounds they did when I was first doing this....asbestos is a bad thing, TAKE A PICTURE of the set up.

Remove the spring at the bottom of the shoes, needle nose work fine. Once that is off, loosen the bleeder screw a bit. Remove the hold down clips/pins from the shoes, a flat head screw driver to push on the clips as you rotate them will work fine.

Slip the bottom part of the shoes out from behind the retainer plate, gently pull outward from the bottom until they clear. Then push in the top of the shoes to push the pistions of the wheel cyl in.

Then spread the top part of the shoes away from the wheel cyl....press the bottom in give the top a pull at the same time, this will get the top part of shoes out of the slots of the wheel cyl.

Then work the shoes downward, top down. You will then need to remove the barke cale from the "shoe lever. I use a pair of needle nose vice grips to push the spring back, lock them, then slip the end of the cable out of the lever.

You can now lift the shoes up and away from the hub and set them on the ground.

I strongly suggest new hardware. You can now put the new shoes and spings and that to match the ones one the ground.

You might have to compress the wheel cyl pistions....gravety might/will cause the pistons to expand while the shoes are off. When putting the new shoes and springs together, be sure the adjusters are screwed in all the way -if re-using the old ones clean and lube the threads. Re-install in reverse order.

Here is a picture of the shoes just before I re-installed them.

Doing it this way, no need for the fancy spring tools.....fighting with the springs, ect. Once the drum is off and everything is washed down.....old shoes are on the ground in five minutes.

Once the new shoes are on and the drum is back on. Use the brake spoon to expand the adjuster until there is a slight drag when spinning the drum.
 
Attached Thumbnails 95 Accord LX rear drum brakes-brake-shoes.jpg  
  #5  
Old 05-17-2015, 01:44 PM
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Thanks for the tutorial! Although yours seems a little different than mine. The upper retaining spring goes around the adjuster instead of separate like yours.
 
  #6  
Old 05-18-2015, 05:56 AM
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In addition I like to lightly spray the brakes off with a light water/degreaser mixture prior to working on the shoes. I then remove the cover from the spindle nut, remove the spindle nut and slide the hub off to gain easy access for working. Once shoes are replaced, clean the inner bearing race with a lint free cloth before reinstalling the hub.
 
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:44 PM
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That pic is for a 3rd gen Accord. Don't worry with the set up, that is why - take a pic after washing down the shoes and that with something (brake cleaner or other).

The "point", you do not need to remove the top spring and adjuster before you remove the shoes. Trying to do that is a PIA and you will spend all kinds of time/money on "special" tools which are not worth it IMHO.
 
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