I have a 95 Accord LX 4 cyl automatic with a/c. almost 300k miles and has been in the family since new. Last spring the heater worked fine, now no heat. I replaced the thermostat, disconnected the heater valve and looked through it to make sure it was opening. I disconnected the heater core and was able to blow air through it without any apparent restriction. The blower motor works fine, and the air comes out of whatever vents it is supposed to depending on what dashbutton is pushed. I spent a lot of time with the breather making all the air was purged from the system.

Still no hot air, what should I try next?

 

does the engine heat up to normal operating temperature?

look on the passenger side of the car, under the dash, attached to the side of the center console there is this wierd-looking thing that sort of twists and slides along a track, it has a servo on it, not sure what its called. Im not very good at directions. Youll know what im talking about when you look down there, its pretty far back, but its basically the only thing on there besides big black boxes. It looks complicated... Turn the car to ON, and twist the temperature wheel on the dash. Does that little servo-thing move?

 

The temp gauge shows the engine to be heating up to the normal range.

I guess I should have mentioned that the heat control dial in the dash is screwed up also. I thought that it was a single cable that went from the dial to the heater valve. I think the gears or whatever converts the rotary motion of the dial to the push/pull of the heater cable is messed up. For a while when turning it made a grinding kind of noise, now the dial just spins with no friction. I have the heater valve disconnected from the cable and held in the open position. I thought the dial problem was a seperate issue, andwanted to get the heat actually working before diving intowhatever is causing the cable to malfunction.

Ill do some searching here to try and find out what needs to be done about the dial/cable problem, but any advice on what to remove, and how to remove it, to get to the bottom of the cable problem would be much appreciated.

I will look under the dash for that mechanism, thanks for the reply

 

That'll be the problem, the dial isn't 'pushing' the wire. Test it by having someone turn the dial while you observe the heater valve to see if the lever moves.

 

The most frequent problem w/ the heater control dial is failure of the ****. Plastic breaks on the **** stem. Pull the **** and check to make sure it is turning the drive shaft. If yes, then you may need a new heater control panel from a salvage car.

good luck

 

If the **** is broken,try using pliers to turn the shaft. If that does NOT make the valve move, the first thing I'd look for is broken or disconnected cables. Check that beforeyou buy a new control panel.

 

Before starting car, make sure theheatercoolant valve is indeedopen. Then start the car and let it warm up fully.

Touch both heater-corecoolant lines (inlet and outlet) and see if they are about as hot as the big rad lines. (Better-still, if you've got a surface thermometer, or one of those hand-held "laser" infrared thermometers, measure the temp of those lines for comparison.)

With thedash gauge indicatingnormal operating temp, if the heater-core coolant valve is open, and all thosehosetemperatures are about the same, read this thread for another possible cause of little or no cabin heat:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/Cau...m_45686/tm.htm

 

Thanks guys I went under the glovebox and slid over that bellcrank? mechanism and the hot air arrived with a fury. I feel kind of stupid to say that the **** was broken in the dash also. I am waiting for someone to come home so I can hook up a pair of vicegraps to the shaft and observe what is happening under the dash and at the heater valve with someone turning the ****. I amvery sure that something in that mechanism is amiss. I know that **** is a poor design, but it was making weird noises and not working properlybefore the **** broke. I am at a loss on how toget behind that controll assembly, or how to access it from the front. Any suggestions would be much appreciated

I usually work on older 4x4's with metal dashes where the screws are right in your face.

 

Here's some instructions for pulling the dash (I think...), should help a bit unless I miss labled my files...

[IMG]local://upfiles/3079/D9EC1209467445D1B0AD5DC1112E3255.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/3079/279E10519B6846688F5220B21E501CB5.jpg[/IMG]

 

It's not necessary to remove the dash to adjust the push/pull wire linkage. I have done this on my 94EX, but don't remember the details. Under the dash on pax side it readily accessible.

good luck