Okay thank you. I’ll look into it when I get home.

 

Okay so I replaced the fuse and now it’s getting power to the white and green wire all the time. And the check engine light cycles for 2 secs like it’s supposed to. But I still do not have power to the fuel pump.

 

You are getting closer to narrowing down the problem.

With the MFR plugged in, use your test light to back-probe the blk/yel #4 wire. The #4 wire should have 12V for about 2 seconds when the check engine light does the bulb check. Checking at the MFR can determine if you have a problem downstream of the MFR with that blk/yel wire.

 

Okay I tested the wire but it doesn’t have any power going to it.

 

Ok, Check again that the #7 and #5 wires both have power with the key in the II position. You want to make sure that you don't have a dead short that blew the fuse, because fuses typically do not simply wear out. Also do this test on the #1 grn/blk wire. Let me know the results on all three.

The next step is to reverse your test light where you have the clip hooked up to + power. With the MFR plugged in, the #1 grn/blk wire should have ground for around 2 second when the CEL does the bulb check. You will back-probe again and the reversed test light will turn on when the #1 wire is grounded. Do the same test on the #3 black wire. Let us know the results from these 2 wires.

 

Okay so both the wires still have power when in pos ll. And #1 does not have power.

when I reverse the test light #1 has ground for The 2 secs. And number 3 does have ground as well all the time.

 

Since pin 1 did not get power when plugged in and you have constant power on #7, then your main fuel relay is at fault.

It is possible that the solder joints are cracked on the main fuel relay circuit board due to heat cycles over time. You can try to reflow the solder. There are youtube videos on how to do this.

I'll guess that your main relay initially blew the 15 amp fuse due to some internal fault. I'd probably go with an OEM (new or used depending on your finances) if soldering doesn't fix the issue, because the solder joints are usually the issue and not something internal on the main relay.

 

So pin 1 needs to have power when the car is in position ll? Even tho it had ground when it was for those 2 seconds. Also the main relay is brand new. I bought the 60 dollar one from the auto parts store

 

Okay I changed out the relay and it start now. I guess the brand new relay was a lemon. Thank you guys for all your help

I still don’t know what killed my fuse tho. Bc I put the new mfr in after it wouldn’t start. Maybe it was my ecu resister burning up?

 

Glad the issue is resolved.

The ECU could have caused the fuse to blow. Or the new MFR imploded on first use and blew the fuse. It is hard to tell.

Aftermarket parts are really hit and miss on quality depending on the component. That is why I tend to recommend OEM parts if the price difference is reasonable, and obviously someone's finances. Too often, we are trying to help someone troubleshoot a problem and the "new" part is bad along with the original problem. This makes troubleshooting the real issue much more complicated. That is why I recommend a bunch of tests to pinpoint the problem before getting parts.

As for the pin 1 test: When the ECU is not grounding the pin, no current flows through pin 1 and it will have 12V. This was a quick internal check of the MFR, because the MFR is 2 relays with multiple inputs/outputs. When the ECU grounds pin #1, the current flows and you will read ground on pin #1, because you are testing after the load from the magnetic coil of the relay. Hope that makes sense.